The sample book in the lower left of the picture contains different colourways of the same textile and comes from the archive of Zika Ascher. Ascher was an innovative textile manufacturer who based himself in London after the annexation of his home country of Czechoslovakia in 1939. His wife designed textiles and their company became incorporated in 1942 (Ascher Ltd). Ascher developed a range of different fabrics for use at the top end of the fashion market. He used samples such as these to show prospective clients his wares, and as a record of his output.

After the Second World War in Europe, couturiers used novel lightweight mixes of wool, mohair and nylon for winter coats and dresses. They favoured screen-printed rayons and silks for summer day wear and shot organza for cocktail and evening dresses. Ascher broke into Paris couture in the late 1940s, establishing an office in that city.