Not currently on display at the V&A

Dress Fabric

1957 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Zika Ascher, an innovative textile converter, based himself in London after the annexation of his home country Czechoslovakia in 1939. After the Second World War, Ascher Ltd designed different ranges of textiles for use at the top end of the fashion market, both in couture and high-class ready-to-wear garments. Ascher kept used samples such as this one to show prospective clients his wares, and as a record of his output.

He turned his attention to developing mixes incorporating mohair in 1956, seeking out manufacturers with a pedigree for excellence. In the case of woollens, he approached Scottish mills with his new ideas. In collaboration they created a range of dress and coat-weight mohairs. Like wool, mohair was warm and took colour well, but it had the advantage of being much lighter weight (a quality appreciated especially in the USA). Some were blended with nylon. In 1957, haute couture promoted bulky look outerwear — mohair was the perfect vehicle for this effect.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Plain woven mohair, wool and nylon
Brief description
Dress fabric sample of woven mohair, wool and nylon mix, made by Ascher Ltd., Great Britain, 1957
Physical description
Dress fabric sample of woven mohair, wool and nylon mix. The ground is green, the check of a similar form to a tartan sett, is black. Each side is virtually identical. The fabric is soft, not particularly hairy, firm but flexible to handle. The plain weave structure is quite dense. It is very lightweight.
Dimensions
  • Width: 41cm
  • Length: 62cm
Production typeMass produced
Marks and inscriptions
Transliteration
.
Credit line
Given by Zika Ascher
Summary
Zika Ascher, an innovative textile converter, based himself in London after the annexation of his home country Czechoslovakia in 1939. After the Second World War, Ascher Ltd designed different ranges of textiles for use at the top end of the fashion market, both in couture and high-class ready-to-wear garments. Ascher kept used samples such as this one to show prospective clients his wares, and as a record of his output.

He turned his attention to developing mixes incorporating mohair in 1956, seeking out manufacturers with a pedigree for excellence. In the case of woollens, he approached Scottish mills with his new ideas. In collaboration they created a range of dress and coat-weight mohairs. Like wool, mohair was warm and took colour well, but it had the advantage of being much lighter weight (a quality appreciated especially in the USA). Some were blended with nylon. In 1957, haute couture promoted bulky look outerwear — mohair was the perfect vehicle for this effect.
Bibliographic reference
Mendes, Valerie. Ascher. Fabric, Art, Fashion. London: V&A Publications, 1987, pp. 112-6.
Collection
Accession number
T.196-1988

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Record createdApril 20, 2007
Record URL
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