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Surprise Packet thumbnail 2
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This object consists of 3 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Surprise Packet

Trouser Suit
1966 (designed), 1973 (made), 1973 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Mary Quant’s first boutique, Bazaar, opened in London's King's Road in 1955, launching a successful fashion career. Her youthful easy-to-wear clothing became so popular that in 1963, she launched a lower-priced ready-to-wear range called 'Ginger Group'. She also entered into licensing agreements with manufacturers to produce hosiery, underwear, cosmetics and accessories bearing her name. Almost anyone, whatever their income, could spare the money to buy a pair of 'Mary Quant' stockings or a lipstick. This enabled girls who could not otherwise afford her clothing to feel in touch with fashion, and made Mary Quant into a household name and a commercial success.

Her contribution to British life was marked by a retrospective exhibition at the London Museum in 1973. The exhibition included many of Quant's most revolutionary garments, some remade as facsimiles if original ones could not be found. This 1966 cream and navy wool trouser-suit was one of the outfits remade. It looks remarkably like a modern tracksuit, and was based on sports and utility wear.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Trousers
  • Tunic
  • Hat
TitleSurprise Packet (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Wool , metal zips
Brief description
Trouser suit 'Surprise Packet'. Quant, Mary. 1966, remade 1973. White wool with navy bands & zippers.
Physical description
Cream wool jacket and trousers. Inset navy bands around thighs and armholes. Collarless jacket with rounded neck, zipper front, sleeves bloused slightly into cuffs. Welt pockets outlined in navy at hips and at knees on trousers, zipper access with large O ring pulls. Ankle cuffs on trousers.

Navy wool beret
Production typeCopy
Gallery label
(30/03/2020)
[Mary Quant exhibition, 2019]

SPORTY TRACKSUITS
1966

Vogue fashion editor Marit Allen included this tracksuit in her ‘Young Idea’ pages, the first time such an outfit had become part of high fashion. She described the look as ‘lighter than light’ although, at 25 guineas, it wasn’t cheap. It shows Quant’s advanced ideas, anticipating the dominance of sportswear as fashion 50 years later.

‘Surprise Packet’ Bonded wool jersey Labelled ‘Mary Quant’
Made in the Mary Quant sample workroom for the 1973 exhibition, Mary Quant’s London
Given by Mary Quant
V&A: T.111&A-1976
Credit line
Given by Mary Quant
Object history
This cream and navy wool jumpsuit looks very like a modern tracksuit and is based on sports and utility wear.

Much of Quant's clothing was designed to be 'mix and match', a new concept for an era of ready-to-wear clothing. In her book Quant on Quant, the designer gives the following advice:

'Every girl should go for separates. She should think of each piece as a part of a jigsaw, then build up a comprehensive fashion picture. I would suggest a wardrobe in miniature like this. Take a pinafore dress, a jacket, skirt, sweater and pants that all go happily together and you have umpteen outfits...Fashion should be a game and it is fun to work out for yourself the different ways of wearing the different garments.'
Production
Remade 1973

Attribution note: Remade for 1973 retrospective
Reason For Production: Retail
Reason For Production: Exhibition
Summary
Mary Quant’s first boutique, Bazaar, opened in London's King's Road in 1955, launching a successful fashion career. Her youthful easy-to-wear clothing became so popular that in 1963, she launched a lower-priced ready-to-wear range called 'Ginger Group'. She also entered into licensing agreements with manufacturers to produce hosiery, underwear, cosmetics and accessories bearing her name. Almost anyone, whatever their income, could spare the money to buy a pair of 'Mary Quant' stockings or a lipstick. This enabled girls who could not otherwise afford her clothing to feel in touch with fashion, and made Mary Quant into a household name and a commercial success.

Her contribution to British life was marked by a retrospective exhibition at the London Museum in 1973. The exhibition included many of Quant's most revolutionary garments, some remade as facsimiles if original ones could not be found. This 1966 cream and navy wool trouser-suit was one of the outfits remade. It looks remarkably like a modern tracksuit, and was based on sports and utility wear.
Bibliographic reference
Carter, Ernestine. Mary Quant's London, London Museum, 1973 36 Featured in Vogue, 15 October 1966, photographs by David Bailey. V&A: NCOL.448-2018
Collection
Accession number
T.111 to B-1976

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Record createdMarch 21, 2007
Record URL
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