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Theatre Costume

Artist/Maker

Designer Oliver Messel collected a range of historical costumes and national dress, partly out of intereset in the subject, partly to wear. Fancy dress and masked balls had, for centuries, been a feature of social life, and continued to be so well into the 20th century. Messel was a regular guest at such functions, often wearing items from his collection.

This costume is, in fact, an original livery worn probably by footmen at the Lord Mayor of London's functions presumably in the late 19th or early 20th century but, like many liveries, the style is 18th century. The suit's severity is offset by the wonderful cut steel buttons decorating the fronts, cuffs, pockets and back of the coat and relieved by the white satin waistcoat and shirt. Messel wore the costume at an 18th century ball at the Mansion House. The elegant plainness of the suit would have made it outstanding among the extravagant dress worn by other guests.

Many families would also have played charades or sometimes put on plays. A dressing up box and raiding of the family attics would have provided most of the costumes. A note by Messel indicates that this beautiful costume was ultimately to be relegated to his dressing up box.

Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, working in every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic designs informed by period styles, were perfectly in tune with his times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, Messel's style had become unfashionable, having no sympathy with the new 'kitchen sink' school of theatre. He increasingly concentrated on his non-theatrical painting and designing and eventually retired to the Caribbean, where he began a new career designing and building highly idiosyncratic luxury villas.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 5 parts.
(Some alternative part names are also shown below)
  • Fancy Dress
  • Coat
  • Fancy Dress
  • Breeches
  • Fancy Dress
  • Waistcoat
  • Fancy Dress
  • Shirt
  • Fancy Dress
  • Cravat
Materials and techniques
Brief description
18th-century style costume worn by Oliver Messel at a Mansion House ball. Oliver Messel Collection.
Physical description
Coat: 18th century cut away tail coat in black velvet, with deep cuffs and pocket flaps down the front, cuffs and pocket flaps are narrow 'froggings' in double lines of narrow black braid. Down the fronts, on cuffs, flaps and at the centre back are cut steel buttons. The sleeves are lined in cream silk repp and the body and tails in black silk repp, padded over the chest and with internal slit pockets.

Breeches: Black velvet knee breeches, fastening below the knee with cut steel buttons and buttonholes. The breeches are lined in ivory silk repp. At the waist are bone buttons for the attachment of braces.

Waistcoat: Low cut evening waistcoat of ivory satin front with white silk back and strap, fastening down the front with cut steel buttons and buttonholes.

Shirt: Long sleeved shirt in white cotton lawn, with neckband fastening to the chest with mother of pearl buttons. Down the front edges, beyond hte button band, are gathered frills of white organza; beyond the band cuffs are pleated frills of white organza. The shirt is elasticated at the botton.

Cravat: Cravat of cream cotton, pleated into a neckband at centre, with press studs and elastic loops to fix to shirt. To one side is a bound slit, to pass the long 'tails' through.
Dimensions
  • Jacket, collar to hem length: 101cm
  • Jacket, shoulder width width: 48cm
  • Breeches, waist to hem length: 85cm
  • Breeches, widest part width: 60cm
  • Packed weight of parts 1 and 2 weight: 2.2kg
  • Shirt, shoulder width length: 85cm
  • Shirt, collar to hem length: 85cm
  • Cravat, width width: 24cm
  • Cravat, length length: 155cm
  • Waistcoat, arpit width width: 46cm
  • Waistcoat, collar to hem length: 58cm
  • Waistcoat, sash, shirt weight: 0.7kg
Marks and inscriptions
BLACK VELVET SUIT. / AS WORN FOR LORD MAYOR'S / FUNCTIONS / 1 WORE FOR 18TH CENTURY BALL / AT MANSION HOUSE. / OM. / FOR DRESSING UP BOX. (mss note by Messel on original costume storage)
Credit line
Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A
Object history
A note by Messel on the original housing identified the costume as worn for Lord Mayor's functions; Messel himself wore it for an 18th century ball at the Mansion House. A further note designates if 'for dressing up box'.
Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's theatre designs and other designs and artefacts. The designs were briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being housed at the V&A from 1981 on indefinite loan. The V&A Theatre Museum purchased the Oliver Messel collection from Lord Snowdon in 2005.
Summary
Designer Oliver Messel collected a range of historical costumes and national dress, partly out of intereset in the subject, partly to wear. Fancy dress and masked balls had, for centuries, been a feature of social life, and continued to be so well into the 20th century. Messel was a regular guest at such functions, often wearing items from his collection.

This costume is, in fact, an original livery worn probably by footmen at the Lord Mayor of London's functions presumably in the late 19th or early 20th century but, like many liveries, the style is 18th century. The suit's severity is offset by the wonderful cut steel buttons decorating the fronts, cuffs, pockets and back of the coat and relieved by the white satin waistcoat and shirt. Messel wore the costume at an 18th century ball at the Mansion House. The elegant plainness of the suit would have made it outstanding among the extravagant dress worn by other guests.

Many families would also have played charades or sometimes put on plays. A dressing up box and raiding of the family attics would have provided most of the costumes. A note by Messel indicates that this beautiful costume was ultimately to be relegated to his dressing up box.

Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, working in every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic designs informed by period styles, were perfectly in tune with his times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, Messel's style had become unfashionable, having no sympathy with the new 'kitchen sink' school of theatre. He increasingly concentrated on his non-theatrical painting and designing and eventually retired to the Caribbean, where he began a new career designing and building highly idiosyncratic luxury villas.
Collection
Accession number
S.575:1to5-2006

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Record createdMarch 16, 2007
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