Jonathan Saunders. Overcoat in red and white waffle weave wool-cotton blend. 2011-12

Man's overcoat, red and white waffle weave, 4 button fastening, 2 waist pockets, lined.

Given by Charlie Porter

This is part of a group of early 2010s menswear donated to the V&A by Charlie Porter, one of the most influential British menswear fashion journalists of the early 21st century. In 2000 Porter became deputy fashion editor for The Guardian, and since then, has worked as an associate editor for GQ and deputy editor for Fantastic Man. He currently writes for The Financial Times as their menswear critic, in addition to his freelance work, DJ-ing and maintaining an active blogging presence online. Porter is particularly known for his understanding of contemporary menswear and familiarity with developing streetwear and alternative trends.

At the time of the donation, Porter provided commentary on many of the pieces. He said of this piece:

"It was fascinating when Jonathan Saunders launched his menswear to see how his understanding of cloth, colour and print would translate for men. He presented his collections as installations, and it was always a pleasure to see where his investigations had taken him, and to have him talk through the clothes. The cloth of this coat is particulary fine - a waffle weave of loose threads that tended to snag, but I've always liked clothing when it's a bit damaged. I wore it often, most prominently for the opening reception for the first ever London Collections Men, which was in some royal building I'm sure I'm supposed to remember somewhere on The Mall, in the presence of Andrew Windsor, or Prince Andrew as monarchists would call him."

(NB: The launch of London Collections:Men took place on 14 June 2014, at St. James Palace, in the presence of Prince Charles. For this event, photographs show that Porter wore the coat wiith a deep blue plaid shirt and dark blue velvet or denim trousers, with green shoes.)

- Daniel Milford-Cottam
20/05/2016

T.104-2015