Ensemble
1964-1965 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This mid-1960s cocktail ensemble by Jacques Heim is typical of its date. The crisply cut coat and short dress in stiff black silk are smart and quite conservative. Cocktail parties were a popular and fashionable social entertainment, and black was a safe choice for such occasions. Complicated Y-shaped seams on the dress, beaded organza sleeves, and ruched coat-buttons make the outfit visually interesting.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
|
| Materials and techniques | Silk lined with silk, and silk organza embroidered with beads |
| Brief description | Silk cocktail dress and coat, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1964-1965 |
| Physical description | Silk dress and coat. |
| Production type | Model |
| Credit line | Given by Mrs Naomi Robins. |
| Object history | This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments. They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product. This design could not be found in any of the five pattern books available, which were Spring and Autumn 1966, Spring and Autumn 1967, and Autumn 1968. It was probably made before 1966, as the style does not relate to other garments in the design books. Came with archival grouping of Heim garments and design books/swatches dating from Spring 1966 to Autumn 1968. Only book missing is Spring 1968, but this is more likely to be Autumn 1964 or 1965 as it is not a very 'Spring' design. |
| Production | Reason For Production: Retail |
| Summary | This mid-1960s cocktail ensemble by Jacques Heim is typical of its date. The crisply cut coat and short dress in stiff black silk are smart and quite conservative. Cocktail parties were a popular and fashionable social entertainment, and black was a safe choice for such occasions. Complicated Y-shaped seams on the dress, beaded organza sleeves, and ruched coat-buttons make the outfit visually interesting. Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.136:1, 2-1998 |
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| Record created | February 9, 2007 |
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