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Evening Dress

1964-1968 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Many 1960s formal evening gowns had strong well-cut shapes with elaborate applied decoration. This Jacques Heim dress of about 1965 in ice-pink wild silk is a good example. The slender skirt has subtle hip-fullness, and the off-the-shoulder bodice is cut with a cape back. The sleeves are cut as one with the cape. Heavy bands of beaded silver embroidery are applied to the bodice-cum-cape and hem. The luxurious fabric, rich decoration, and couturier name would have made this an expensive dress.

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Slub silk with beading and silver embroidery
Brief description
Full length evening dress in slub wilk silk, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1964-1968
Physical description
Full length evening dress in ice pink slub wilk silk, with a slender skirt slightly full at the hips, high waisted bodice off the shoulders, with sleeves incorporated into an off-the-shoulder cape back. Cape-bodice has three bands of silver embroidery with fabric rouleau, pink sequins and faux pearl beads, and looped glass bead fringe. The hem has one band along the bottom. Back zipper. Fully lined.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem length: 138cm
Production typeModel
Credit line
Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.
Object history
This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.

They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.

This design could not be found in any of the five pattern books available, which were Spring and Autumn 1966, Spring and Autumn 1967, and Autumn 1968. It may be from Spring 1968 or pre-1966.

Unlabelled, but came with archival grouping of Heim garments and design books/swatches dating from Spring 1966 to Autumn 1968. Only book missing is Spring 1968, this is probably from then, but could be 1964/1965.
Production
Reason For Production: Retail
Summary
Many 1960s formal evening gowns had strong well-cut shapes with elaborate applied decoration. This Jacques Heim dress of about 1965 in ice-pink wild silk is a good example. The slender skirt has subtle hip-fullness, and the off-the-shoulder bodice is cut with a cape back. The sleeves are cut as one with the cape. Heavy bands of beaded silver embroidery are applied to the bodice-cum-cape and hem. The luxurious fabric, rich decoration, and couturier name would have made this an expensive dress.

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques.
Collection
Accession number
T.140-1998

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Record createdFebruary 9, 2007
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