Tessa
Evening Dress
1967 (made)
1967 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Long, draped Grecian evening gowns were popular in the 1960s. This Jacques Heim dress, from Autumn 1967, relies on heavy, pleated crêpe for its impact. The neckline is crossed over and there is a bow at the nape of the neck. Despite its simplicity, the expensive fabric, quality finish, and couturier name meant a high price-tag of 42 guineas. Beaded evening dresses, such as a dress called 'Fougere' in the Museum's collection (see T.139-1998), cost even more.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques. This particular design, 'Tessa', had a wholesale price of 25 guineas (£26.25), with £2.13 tax.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques. This particular design, 'Tessa', had a wholesale price of 25 guineas (£26.25), with £2.13 tax.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | Tessa (assigned by artist) |
| Materials and techniques | Crêpe |
| Brief description | Full length evening sleeveless dress 'Tessa' made of crêpe, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1967 |
| Physical description | Full length evening sleeveless dress made of the palest off-beige cream crêpe. Cross over drapery at the neckline and bow at the back of the neck. Back zipper. Original hang tag. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production type | Model |
| Marks and inscriptions |
|
| Credit line | Given by Mrs Naomi Robins. |
| Object history | This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments. They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product. The fabrics for this particular design are in the design book dated Autumn 1967, attached to the sketch for "Tessa", number 3253. A price list also exists; this dress was available at a wholesale price of 25 guineas, with tax of 2.13, and suggested retail of 41 and a half guineas. The price list identifies the fabric as being made by Staron. |
| Production | Autumn 1967 Attribution note: From the Autumn 1967 collection |
| Summary | Long, draped Grecian evening gowns were popular in the 1960s. This Jacques Heim dress, from Autumn 1967, relies on heavy, pleated crêpe for its impact. The neckline is crossed over and there is a bow at the nape of the neck. Despite its simplicity, the expensive fabric, quality finish, and couturier name meant a high price-tag of 42 guineas. Beaded evening dresses, such as a dress called 'Fougere' in the Museum's collection (see T.139-1998), cost even more. Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques. This particular design, 'Tessa', had a wholesale price of 25 guineas (£26.25), with £2.13 tax. |
| Other number | 3253 - design number |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.141-1998 |
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| Record created | February 9, 2007 |
| Record URL |
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