Violette
Cocktail Dress
1967 (made)
1967 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This Jacques Heim dress from Spring 1967 shows the designer's interpretation of the new young fashions. At this period, long-established couturiers typically catered to a regular clientele with sedate, ladylike tastes. Heim broke from tradition with a dramatic mini-caftan in sunray-pleated purple silk. The hem flares out to reveal frilly lime-green silk shorts attached to an underdress. This design would not have looked out of place in a King's Road boutique for young people.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | Violette (assigned by artist) |
| Materials and techniques | Pleated silk over silk and synthetic lining |
| Brief description | Mini length circular caftan dress in pleated silk with dolman sleeves 'Violette', designed by Jacques Heim. made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1967 |
| Physical description | Mini length circular caftan dress with dolman sleeves. Vibrant purple silk tussah sunray-pleated from high neck. Sleeveless underdress, lime green lining and lime silk tussah skort (shorts/skirt combination) with triple ruffles upon each leg opening. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production type | Model |
| Marks and inscriptions |
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| Credit line | Given by Mrs Naomi Robins. |
| Object history | This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments. They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product. This particular design is in the design book dated Spring 1967, ID'd as model number 89, "Violette", number 3191. |
| Production | Spring 1967 Attribution note: From the Spring 1967 collection Reason For Production: Retail |
| Summary | This Jacques Heim dress from Spring 1967 shows the designer's interpretation of the new young fashions. At this period, long-established couturiers typically catered to a regular clientele with sedate, ladylike tastes. Heim broke from tradition with a dramatic mini-caftan in sunray-pleated purple silk. The hem flares out to reveal frilly lime-green silk shorts attached to an underdress. This design would not have looked out of place in a King's Road boutique for young people. Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques. |
| Other numbers |
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.144-1998 |
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| Record created | February 8, 2007 |
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