Necklace thumbnail 1
Not on display

Necklace

20th century (made)
Place of origin

The necklace is made of individual gold struts filled with lac and strung together on three threads to make a flexible neck ornament worn as a choker on black textile cords with gold knops, which were renewed by the dealer who sold the piece to the donor. The individual struts are decorated with die-stamping with minuscule granules on ball finials at the top and a pendant tiny ball and faceted link below, which together with all the other strung units creates a fringe. A pair of wedge-shaped units terminate the flexible struts, one at either end, which are chased with an abstract kirttimukha design on the obverse. The reverse sides bear two different inscriptions punched in a South Indian script with Arabic numerals.

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold, lac and textile
Brief description
Gold necklace from Kerala
Physical description
The necklace is made of individual gold struts filled with lac and strung together on three threads to make a flexible neck ornament worn as a choker on black textile cords with gold knops, which were renewed by the dealer who sold the piece to the donor. The individual struts are decorated with die-stamping with minuscule granules on ball finials at the top and a pendant tiny ball and faceted link below, which together with all the other strung units creates a fringe. A pair of wedge-shaped units terminate the flexible struts, one at either end, which are chased with an abstract kirttimukha design on the obverse. The reverse sides bear two different inscriptions punched in a South Indian script with Arabic numerals.
Dimensions
  • Weight: circa 38.6g
  • Length: 27.6cm (without cord)
Marks and inscriptions
Arabic numerals on reverse of right hand unit. 100 ... (untranslated Indian script) 34.800 ... (untranslated Indian script) (Punched inscription on the reverse of both ends (not translated), with Arabic numerals which possibly represents the weight of the piece. )
Credit line
Given by Dr W. Ganguly
Object history
This necklace is part of the large donation of Indian folk jewellery from Dr Waltraud Ganguly which was collected over the last few decades before her death in 2015 from dealers in both India and Europe, in parallel with extensive fieldwork she carried out in the Indian Sub-Continent. It was shown at the exhibition in the Goldschmiedehaus, Hanau, Germany, 18 October 2013 - 18 January 2014. It was purchased from Hans Weihreter, a jewellery dealer in Augsburg in 1994 for 2493 Euros.
Historical context
Dr Ganguly suggests that this piece was worn by Malabar Muslims, but it might also be part of a set of marriage necklaces, mangkaliyam anivadam, for a Hindu bride, possible from the Nayar caste, ( see Untracht, 1997, fig, 492)
Bibliographic references
  • Indian folk jewellery : designs and techniques / Waltraud Ganguly. Number: 9789350502129, 9350502127 p.88
  • Traditional jewelry of India / Oppi Untracht. London: Thames and Hudson Limited London, 1997 Number: 0500017808
Collection
Accession number
IS.171-2019

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Record createdApril 29, 2015
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