Evening Coat thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Evening Coat

ca. 1910 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The kimono-style cut of this evening coat reflects the impact of Japanese design on early 20th century European fashion. French couturier Paul Poiret is particularly well known for having been inspired by styles associated with Japan.

Vitaldi Babani was a celebrated Parisian designer-importer. His shop stocked textiles and furnishing fabrics imported from places including the Middle East. Babani also provided luxurious clothes, such as this coat, for the wealthy. The woven silk, with its design of cranes in a stylised and dramatic overall pattern, is borrowed from Japanese design. Around 1904, Babani sold kimono-style gowns made from Japanese fabrics which became very sought after. This may be an example of one of these gowns.

The coat is associated with the Italian actor, Eleonora Duse (1858-1924), who also patronised the Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk
Brief description
Evening coat, designed by Babani, Paris, 1910-1920
Physical description
Kimono-style evening coat of purple silk with woven design of cranes. Lined with cream silk. Silk and canvas interlining.
Dimensions
  • Across shoulders, sleeve end to sleeve end width: 140cm
  • Shoulder to hem length: 146cm
Marks and inscriptions
V. Babani, / 92 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris (Woven label)
Credit line
Given by the Dominican Sisters
Object history
The coat is associated with the Italian actor, Eleonora Duse (1858-1954), who also patronised the Italian designer Mariano Fortuny.
Subject depicted
Summary
The kimono-style cut of this evening coat reflects the impact of Japanese design on early 20th century European fashion. French couturier Paul Poiret is particularly well known for having been inspired by styles associated with Japan.

Vitaldi Babani was a celebrated Parisian designer-importer. His shop stocked textiles and furnishing fabrics imported from places including the Middle East. Babani also provided luxurious clothes, such as this coat, for the wealthy. The woven silk, with its design of cranes in a stylised and dramatic overall pattern, is borrowed from Japanese design. Around 1904, Babani sold kimono-style gowns made from Japanese fabrics which became very sought after. This may be an example of one of these gowns.

The coat is associated with the Italian actor, Eleonora Duse (1858-1924), who also patronised the Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny.
Collection
Accession number
T.8-2006

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Record createdJanuary 31, 2007
Record URL
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