Shirt
1630-1639 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Exquisitely fine needlework adorns this man’s shirt of the 1630s. The technique used is drawn thread and pulled thread work, where strands of the woven linen are cut and pulled away. The remaining warp or weft threads are then embroidered together to create an openwork effect. This style of needlework can be found on the edge of the shirt front, back, sleeves and underarm gusset, as part of the finishing of all the raw edges. Each piece is then embroidered together rather than using conventional seams. French knots and insertion work further embellish the shirt cuffs, collar, shoulder and front.
It is not clear where this shirt was made. Although the overall embroidery style is similar to Italian needlework, it is slightly different in detail. The shirt may be an English imitation of an admired foreign example. The wide short sleeves of the shirt are characteristic of the 1630s and may well have been visible through the open seam of the doublet sleeve.
It is not clear where this shirt was made. Although the overall embroidery style is similar to Italian needlework, it is slightly different in detail. The shirt may be an English imitation of an admired foreign example. The wide short sleeves of the shirt are characteristic of the 1630s and may well have been visible through the open seam of the doublet sleeve.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Linen; hand-woven, hand-sewn and hand-embroidered |
| Brief description | Man's shirt of linen whitework, 1630s, English or Italian |
| Physical description | Man’s shirt of fine bleached linen. It is made of 2 rectangles for the front and back, 2 rectangular sleeves, 2 rectangular shoulder pieces and 2 square gussets. The edges of all are finished with pulled-fabric work hems and the side, shoulder and sleeve seams are embroidered together. There 2 areas of simple insertions on the shoulder panels. The cuffs and collar are 5/16-inch (6 mm) wide and embroidered with white linen thread. There is a worked buttonhole at each end of each cuff and the collar. |
| Dimensions |
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| Credit line | Given by Miss F. M. P. Hipwood |
| Summary | Exquisitely fine needlework adorns this man’s shirt of the 1630s. The technique used is drawn thread and pulled thread work, where strands of the woven linen are cut and pulled away. The remaining warp or weft threads are then embroidered together to create an openwork effect. This style of needlework can be found on the edge of the shirt front, back, sleeves and underarm gusset, as part of the finishing of all the raw edges. Each piece is then embroidered together rather than using conventional seams. French knots and insertion work further embellish the shirt cuffs, collar, shoulder and front. It is not clear where this shirt was made. Although the overall embroidery style is similar to Italian needlework, it is slightly different in detail. The shirt may be an English imitation of an admired foreign example. The wide short sleeves of the shirt are characteristic of the 1630s and may well have been visible through the open seam of the doublet sleeve. |
| Bibliographic reference | Avril Hart and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: the 17th and 18th centuries, London: V&A, 1998, p. 194
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.49-1934 |
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| Record created | January 2, 2007 |
| Record URL |
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