Not currently on display at the V&A

Margaret Leighton as Cleopatra

Theatre Design
1969 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Costume design by Carl Toms for Margaret Leighton as Cleopatra in Antony and Cleopatra, Chichester Festival Theatre, 1969.

Carl Toms (1927-1999) was one of the most successful British theatre designers of the late 20th century. He designed settings and costumes for all the major British theatre companies, including the National Theatre (both at the Old Vic and on the South Bank), the Royal Shakespeare Company (though never for Shakespeare) and Chichester Festival Theatre, and for numerous productions in London’s West End. He had a long association with the plays of Tom Stoppard, collaborating with the director Peter Wood. Toms also worked for opera and ballet companies in Britain, Europe and the United States, designed for films (memorably creating the skimpy fur bikini for Raquel Welch which was the abiding memory of the 1967 epic One Million Years B.C.), and was responsible for the redecoration and refurbishment of the Theatre Royals at Windsor (1965), Bath (1982) and Richmond (1990). In 1969 he was design consultant for the Investiture of the Prince of Wales at Caernarvon Castle.

Toms was born in Nottinghamshire and began his training at the Mansfield College of Art, before going on to the Royal College of Art and then to the Old Vic School. There he was trained by Margaret Harris, a third of the celebrated Motley design partnership. Harris introduced Toms to Oliver Messel, the most celebrated designer of the mid 20th century, and Toms became Messel’s assistant for six years (1952-57), making many of the models of Messel’s designs now held in the V&A.

Antony and Cleopatra, directed by Peter Dews, was 'simply staged on a permanent set, a plain architectural construct with flights of stairs framing bronze doors setting off the sumptuous costumes' (Daily Telegraph, 24 July 1969). Margaret Leighton's performance, opposite the Antony of John Clements, was higly praised, 'the real triumph of the occasion' according to the Guardian (24 July 1969).

The design belonged to Harry Schneider, who worked for the costumiers, Berman and Nathan's, and made the costumes for Carl Toms.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleMargaret Leighton as Cleopatra (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Watercolour and pencil on board
Brief description
Costume design by Carl Toms for Margaret Leighton as Cleopatra in Antony and Cleopatra, Chichester Festival Theatre, 1969
Physical description
Costume design for Margaret Leighton as Cleopatra. Full length figure of Cleopatra in a dark blue dress and over-robe, with wide vertical fawn stripes decorated with gold symbols, and an Egyptian-style gold collar and headdress. Signed. Mounted.
Dimensions
  • Design height: 55cm
  • Design width: 41.3cm
  • Mount height: 66.7cm
  • Mount width: 51.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Cleopatra / full regalia' (Inscribed in ink, upper right hand corner)
  • 'Carl Toms' (Artist's signature, ink, lower right hand corner)
Literary referenceAntony and Cleopatra
Summary
Costume design by Carl Toms for Margaret Leighton as Cleopatra in Antony and Cleopatra, Chichester Festival Theatre, 1969.

Carl Toms (1927-1999) was one of the most successful British theatre designers of the late 20th century. He designed settings and costumes for all the major British theatre companies, including the National Theatre (both at the Old Vic and on the South Bank), the Royal Shakespeare Company (though never for Shakespeare) and Chichester Festival Theatre, and for numerous productions in London’s West End. He had a long association with the plays of Tom Stoppard, collaborating with the director Peter Wood. Toms also worked for opera and ballet companies in Britain, Europe and the United States, designed for films (memorably creating the skimpy fur bikini for Raquel Welch which was the abiding memory of the 1967 epic One Million Years B.C.), and was responsible for the redecoration and refurbishment of the Theatre Royals at Windsor (1965), Bath (1982) and Richmond (1990). In 1969 he was design consultant for the Investiture of the Prince of Wales at Caernarvon Castle.

Toms was born in Nottinghamshire and began his training at the Mansfield College of Art, before going on to the Royal College of Art and then to the Old Vic School. There he was trained by Margaret Harris, a third of the celebrated Motley design partnership. Harris introduced Toms to Oliver Messel, the most celebrated designer of the mid 20th century, and Toms became Messel’s assistant for six years (1952-57), making many of the models of Messel’s designs now held in the V&A.

Antony and Cleopatra, directed by Peter Dews, was 'simply staged on a permanent set, a plain architectural construct with flights of stairs framing bronze doors setting off the sumptuous costumes' (Daily Telegraph, 24 July 1969). Margaret Leighton's performance, opposite the Antony of John Clements, was higly praised, 'the real triumph of the occasion' according to the Guardian (24 July 1969).

The design belonged to Harry Schneider, who worked for the costumiers, Berman and Nathan's, and made the costumes for Carl Toms.
Collection
Accession number
S.379-2015

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Record createdJanuary 5, 2015
Record URL
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