Red and green voided silk velvet, brocaded in gold with floral sprigs and pomegranates, 1425-50, Italian

Piece of cut velvet brocaded with gold thread; green silk pile on a red voided ground. The design is a dropped repeat composed of alternating rows of floral sprigs and pomegranates (these motifs are in gold). The motifs repeat three times across the textile, which comprises two pieces seamed together (roughly in proportions of 2:1). The selvedges are not visible.

Bought from Monsieur L. Marcy, 50 Upper Marylebone Street, London on 19th December 1894. Signed into the Storekeeper's office on 15th December 1894 along with several other pieces of silk and portions of vestments, all damaged, this single number corresponds with the entry for '4 piece green velvet gold embroideries [damaged]' (subsequently, the term 'embroideries' was scored through). Originally offered for £7, the price paid was £6. No other information is available on this object. Louis Marcy offered the museum various objects between 1894 and 1903, both Middle Eastern and European, including many textiles. (Nominal file: Marcy, Louis, MA/1/M765)

Historical significance: Significant as an example of one of the most complex silks woven in this period, using the most expensive technique and raw materials. Possibly not the best example because of the rather crude seaming and the fact that the full width of the textile cannot be seen.

This type of voided velvet was one of the most expensive types of silk on the market in Renaissance Europe, being used for furnishings, secular dress and ecclesiastical vestments in elite circles. It was expensive because it made use of expensive raw materials (silk and gold), was time-consuming to weave, and required skilled labour. Production was organised in a guild system.

The main centres of silk weaving in fourteenth and fifteenth century Europe were in Italian cities - Venice, Milan, Lucca, Florence, Genoa, Bologna, although some Spanish centres in eastern and southern Spain attempted to compete. Valencia, for example, imported Genoese weavers at the end of the fifteenth century to set up a guild of velvet weavers (Art de Velluters and the Cofradía de San Jerónimo (1479-83)).

Select bibliography
Lisa Monnas. 'Italian silks (1300-1500)'. In J. Harris, ed.5,000 Years of Textiles. London: British Museum, 1993, pp. 167-75
Germán Navarro. El despegue de la industria sedera en la Valencia del siglo XV. Valencia: Generalitat Valenciana, 1992.

This type of voided velvet was one of the most expensive silk textiles on the market in Renaissance Europe. It was used for both furnishings and dress in elite circles. It was expensive because it made use of relatively scarce and expensive raw materials (silk and gold), was time-consuming to weave, and required the labour of skilled weavers. Production was organised in a guild system, in which those learning the trade had to serve a long apprenticeship before being allowed to set up their own workshops.

The main centres of silk weaving in 14th- and 15th-century Europe were in Italian cities — Venice, Milan, Lucca, Florence, Genoa, Bologna — although some centres in eastern and southern Spain attempted to compete. Valencia, for example, imported Genoese weavers at the end of the 15th century to set up a guild of velvet weavers with the necessary skills.

859-1894