Ensemble thumbnail 1
Ensemble thumbnail 2
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images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Fashion, Room 40

Ensemble

late 1954 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This ensemble was designed by the Parisian couturier Hubert de Givenchy (b. 1927) for Leslie Caron (b. 1931), the French film actress and dancer. It was made for a play called 'Orvet' by Jean Renoir, who was Caron's great friend and mentor. He wrote it for her, and also directed it. It was first performed at the Theatre de la Renaissance, Paris, on 12 March 1955.

Although this dress was worn on stage, it is a couture quality creation. The dress and jacket are made from heavyweight wool with moiré silk panels in the skirt, and must have been very warm during the performance.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Dress
  • Jacket
Materials and techniques
Wool with moiré silk panels in the skirt
Brief description
Dress and jacket of black wool with moire silk pleats, by Hubert de Givenchy, Paris, Fall-Winter 1954.
Made for Leslie Caron to wear on stage in "Orvet," opened in Paris, 12 March 1955.
Physical description
A dress and matching jacket of black wool, labelled and numbered 7095. The plain fitted wool bodice has three-quarter length sleeves, above the skirt of panelled pleats of wool interspersed with moiré silk. The jacket of black wool has a diagonal buttoned fastening and one side pocket to balance the line of the skirt.
Dimensions
  • Footprint diameter: 100cm
  • Waist circumference: 62cm
  • Bust circumference: 93cm
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Hubert de Givenchy, Paris' (Label - white on black - on jacket and dress)
  • 'Orvete 7095' (Handwritten number on back of label on jacket and dress)
Gallery label
Jacket and dress Hubert de Givenchy (born 1927) Paris 1955 spring Dior and many other couturiers designed for film and theatre. Although this dress was designed to be worn on stage, it is a couture creation. The dress and jacket are made from heavyweight wool, which must have been very warm during the performance. Wool with moiré silk panels in the skirt Worn by Leslie Caron in the Jean Renoir play Orvet, which opened at the Théâtre de la Renaissance in Paris on 12 March 1955 V&A: T.35:1, 2-2006(22/09/2007)
Object history
This ensemble was made by Givenchy for Leslie Caron (b. July 1, 1931), the French film actress and dancer. It was made for a play called 'Orvet' by Jean Renoir, who was Miss Caron's great friend and mentor. He wrote it for her, and also directed it. It was first performed a the Theatre de la Renaissance, Paris, on 12 March 1955. Although, made for 'Orvet' the suit is a fine example of Haute Couture construction and finish.

It was sold by Ms. Caron at auction (Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd, Sotheby's) in 2006.

An original drawing of the suit, done by Marcel Fromenti for The Lady in 1954, shows that this suit was model number 1225 in Givenchy's haute couture Fall-Winter collection of 1954-55. Fromenti has portrayed the black wool suit with exceptional accuracy, capturing the distinctive skirt composed of wide alternating pleats of silk moiré and wool and the small-waisted jacket with off-centre button fastening balanced by a single pocket flap. (see E.1570-1954).
Production
Reason For Production: Commission
Summary
This ensemble was designed by the Parisian couturier Hubert de Givenchy (b. 1927) for Leslie Caron (b. 1931), the French film actress and dancer. It was made for a play called 'Orvet' by Jean Renoir, who was Caron's great friend and mentor. He wrote it for her, and also directed it. It was first performed at the Theatre de la Renaissance, Paris, on 12 March 1955.

Although this dress was worn on stage, it is a couture quality creation. The dress and jacket are made from heavyweight wool with moiré silk panels in the skirt, and must have been very warm during the performance.
Associated object
E.1570-1954 (Depiction)
Other numbers
  • 7095 - Number on label
  • 1225 - Model number
Collection
Accession number
T.35:1, 2-2006

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Record createdNovember 16, 2006
Record URL
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