Ring thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Ring

1959-1960 (designed), 1970 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

In the 1950s and ’60s Scandinavian design, with its simplicity of form and natural materials, was influential all over the world in many media, from textiles to furniture. The jewellery was designed around organic shapes, often merging to become miniature sculptural elements. Finely crafted silver was the preferred material, often in combination with inexpensive gemstones in unconventional cuts and asymmetrical compositions.

Saara Hopea-Untracht studied at the School of Arts and Crafts in Helsinki. She became a designer for furniture, lighting and glassware. It was not until 1959 that Hopea-Untracht began making jewellery. She was one of Finland's leading twentieth-century designers. From a family of goldsmiths, she began designing jewellery in 1958, and her designs were made in the family workshop in the town of Porvoo.She travelled extensively and lived in America, Nepal and India with her husband Oppi Untracht, author and metal historian.

This finger ring with its stunning swirling form in silver and gold was designed to be worn on the middle finger. Described by Saara Hopea-Untracht as a 'Wing' ring it extends above the band and across the top of the adjoining two fingers, to create an extensive area of decoration on the back of the hand.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silver and gold
Brief Description
Silver and gold ring, large bezel with domed and curling forms, designed by Saara Hopea-Untracht, Finland, 1959-1960, made 1970
Physical Description
Silver and gold ring with a large bezel which extends across three fingers. The domed curling forms of the bezel extend symmetrically out of the band of the ring, curling up the hand and away from the fingers when worn.
Dimensions
  • Height: 3.4cm
  • Width: 6.1cm
  • Depth: 2.2cm
Marks and Inscriptions
  • 'OH' (Sponsor's mark for Ossian Hopea)
  • Crown (Assay Office mark)
  • '925 [sic]' (Silver quality mark)
  • 'C' (Symbol for the town of Porvoo)
  • 'R7' (Mark for the year 1970)
  • 'KÄSITYÖ'
Credit line
Given by Oppi Untracht
Summary
In the 1950s and ’60s Scandinavian design, with its simplicity of form and natural materials, was influential all over the world in many media, from textiles to furniture. The jewellery was designed around organic shapes, often merging to become miniature sculptural elements. Finely crafted silver was the preferred material, often in combination with inexpensive gemstones in unconventional cuts and asymmetrical compositions.



Saara Hopea-Untracht studied at the School of Arts and Crafts in Helsinki. She became a designer for furniture, lighting and glassware. It was not until 1959 that Hopea-Untracht began making jewellery. She was one of Finland's leading twentieth-century designers. From a family of goldsmiths, she began designing jewellery in 1958, and her designs were made in the family workshop in the town of Porvoo.She travelled extensively and lived in America, Nepal and India with her husband Oppi Untracht, author and metal historian.



This finger ring with its stunning swirling form in silver and gold was designed to be worn on the middle finger. Described by Saara Hopea-Untracht as a 'Wing' ring it extends above the band and across the top of the adjoining two fingers, to create an extensive area of decoration on the back of the hand.
Associated Objects
Bibliographic References
  • Oppi Untracht, Jewelery. Concepts and Technology, London 1982, p. 116.
  • Ramshaw, Wendy, Saara Hopea-Untracht, 1925-1984, Metalsmith, Fall 1984, Vol. 4 Issue 4, p.6
Collection
Accession Number
M.11-2006

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record createdSeptember 26, 2006
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