Man's waistcoat, 1780s, probably British; white silk satin, trimmed with rabbit fur dyed green, black velvet revers, altered 1870-1910

Man’s waistcoat with a 1¼-inch (3 cm) standing collar, revers, straight fronts and straight hem, hip-length, with a welted pocket on each front. The fronts, collar and pocket welts are made of white silk satin, the back of fustian, the revers of black silk cut velvet. The waistcoat is lined with fustian; the pockets with linen. Half-inch (1 cm) strips of rabbit fur, dyed green, are applied to the fronts. The waistcoat is applied with ¼-inch wide black silk velvet ribbon and embroidered-to-shape with silver foil and purl, glass pastes and silk floss in shades of green and pink, in a floral pattern, on the collar, revers, front edges and hems. There are 10 worked buttonholes along the left front with 10 embroidered buttons on the right front.

The waistcoat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. An insertion of linen was made in the centre-back seam, eyelets and a tape for lacing added to each side of the seam.

Given by Theophania Fairfax

This white satin waistcoat is extravagantly trimmed with dyed rabbit fur. Occasionally used as a decorative trimming on men’s and women’s dress in the 18th century, it has been arranged in strips here to imitate fringing. The fur appears to have been dyed a rather acid green, although it is possible that the colour has undergone a chemical change. The waistcoat is also decorated with narrow black velvet ribbon, embroidered with silver foil, purl and glass paste.

T.858-1919