Man's formal coat, waistcoat and breeches; 1770s, British; ivory wool, silver-grey taffeta, embroidered with metal threads, spangles.

A man’s formal coat waistcoat and breeches; the coat of ivory woollen broadcloth with a 1-inch (2.5 cm) standing collar and curving, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 4⅜ inches (11 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 5-inch deep (12.5 cm), set below the hip towards centre back. Each front has a pocket with a shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back, sleeves and pockets are lined with bleached linen, the front, skirts and pocket flaps with ivory silk twill. The coat is appliquéd with silk twill ribbons of pale pink and silver-grey and embroidered with silver and silver-gilt spangles, purl and white and red silk thread, in a pattern of swags and tassels, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts, pleats and centre-back opening. There are 10 embroidered buttons of textured blue foil along the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below each pocket, 1 at the top, centre and bottom of the pleats (1 at bottom left missing). The coat fastens with 2 pair of hooks and eyes on the fronts at centre chest.

The waistcoat fronts are made of silver-grey silk taffeta, with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pocket flap. The back is made of ivory worsted; the waistcoat is lined with bleached linen. The fronts are faced and the skirts and pocket flaps lined with ivory silk twill. It is appliquéd with white silk twill ribbon and embroidered with silver and silver-gilt spangles, purl and white and red silk thread, in a pattern of swags and tassels, on the front collars and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems. The fronts are embroidered with a repeating pattern of spangles. There are 12 worked buttonholes along the left front and 12 corresponding embroidered buttons of textured blue foil on the right front and 3 below each pocket.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands of the ivory woollen broadcloth; the back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back waistbands. There is a pocket on each front and a watch pocket in the right front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands, a fall front and a buckle at the back. The waistbands, legs and pockets are lined with bleached linen, the fall front with ivory silk twill. Three embroidered buttons of textured blue foil fasten the waistband 2, the fall front and 1 each pocket. There are 4 worked buttonholes and 4 of the same embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are appliquéd with pink silk twill ribbon and embroidered with silver and silver-gilt spangles and purl.

Embroidery in silver and silver-gilt thread sparkles against the cream wool of this formal coat of the 1770s. The influence of the neo-classical style can be seen in the motifs and proportions of the embroidery design. Narrow ribbons of ivory silk were first applied to the wool, then embroidered over with silver and silver-gilt thread in a pattern of finely drawn garlands and festoons held with tassels. Each of the tassels finishes with a narrow line of red silk worked in raised satin stitch. The buttons are covered with textured blue foil and embroidered with silver-gilt thread and spangles (or sequins).

656-1898