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Waistcoat

1775-1780 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

An unusual braid ofpainted and tamboured (chain stitched with a hook instead of a needle) cotton in two widths has provided the inspiration for the embroidery of this waistcoat. The wider braid used on the pocket flaps and along the front and lower edge, has a pattern of painted wavy lines with floral sprigs, against a ground of dots. The lines and flowers have been outlined in tamboured silver thread. Around the pockets can be found a narrower braid in the same colours, but of slightly different pattern.

The double meanders of the braid have been copied in the decoration of the waistcoat front, tamboured in salmon-pink silk and silver threads. The floral motifs have also been copied, not by painting, but filled with coloured silk tambouring. The differences in technique and colours indicate that more than one hand was involved in the creation of the waistcoat, although the overall effect is one of harmony and homogeneity.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton, linen, silk, silver; hand woven, hand-painted, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn
Brief description
Man's waistcoat, 1775-80, British; fustian with painted cotton braid, tamboured
Physical description
Man’s waistcoat with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and rectangular pocket flap. The fronts are made of partially bleached fustian twill, the back of linen. The waistcoat is lined with fustian, the pockets and pocket flaps with linen. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with tamboured green, pink and blue silk floss and silver filé, in a pattern of wavy lines and abstract floral sprigs on waistcoat fronts. A 1¼-inch (3 cm) wide, woven cotton braid, hand painted with red and blue in a pattern of wavy lines and abstract floral sprigs and tamboured with silver filé is applied to the pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the waistcoat fronts and hems. There are 11 worked buttonholes along the left front and 11 embroidered buttons on the right front.
Dimensions
  • Right shoulder to hem length: 78.0cm (approx)
  • Chest under armholes circumference: 107.5cm (approx)
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Given by Miss Bury
Subject depicted
Summary
An unusual braid ofpainted and tamboured (chain stitched with a hook instead of a needle) cotton in two widths has provided the inspiration for the embroidery of this waistcoat. The wider braid used on the pocket flaps and along the front and lower edge, has a pattern of painted wavy lines with floral sprigs, against a ground of dots. The lines and flowers have been outlined in tamboured silver thread. Around the pockets can be found a narrower braid in the same colours, but of slightly different pattern.

The double meanders of the braid have been copied in the decoration of the waistcoat front, tamboured in salmon-pink silk and silver threads. The floral motifs have also been copied, not by painting, but filled with coloured silk tambouring. The differences in technique and colours indicate that more than one hand was involved in the creation of the waistcoat, although the overall effect is one of harmony and homogeneity.
Bibliographic reference
Hart, Avril and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A Publications, 1998, p. 104
Collection
Accession number
467-1880

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Record createdAugust 15, 2006
Record URL
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