Gown
1790s (weaving), 1795 - 1800 (sewing)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
This gown shows how the traditional construction techniques of 18th-century dressmaking adapted to the high-waisted styles that became popular in the late 1790s. Pleating remained a convenient method of fitting a gown to the individual wearer and retaining fullness at the back. Here the silk is arranged in a series of narrow pleats on either side of the centre back. This produced the desired Neo-classical style: a closely fitting upper bodice with a full, slightly trained skirt. The pale colour of the silk with small abstract motifs also demonstrates the Neo-classical influence.
In keeping with earlier 18th-century styles, the gown is open at the front, to be worn over a petticoat. The cut of the bodice, however, conforms to the new high-waisted style, gathered at the waist with a drawstring neckline. A lining in the form of an inner linen bodice is another legacy of earlier construction techniques.
In keeping with earlier 18th-century styles, the gown is open at the front, to be worn over a petticoat. The cut of the bodice, however, conforms to the new high-waisted style, gathered at the waist with a drawstring neckline. A lining in the form of an inner linen bodice is another legacy of earlier construction techniques.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silk and linen, hand woven and hand sewn, whalebone; hand-woven brocade, hand-sewn |
Brief description | A woman's gown, 1795-1800, British; Figured cream silk satin, brocaded with floral sprigs, 1790s, British |
Physical description | A woman's gown of figured cream silk satin, brocaded with floral sprigs. The gown is open at the front with a high waist and shaped, elbow length sleeves with 3 deep horizontal pleats. It is made of 5 widths of silk, gathered in fine pleats in groups of 3 at the front and sides, with 9 fan-shaped pleats on either side of the centre back seam. The bodice fronts are gathered at the bottom and have a hem casing with a silk ribbon drawstring at the neckline. They extend over the shoulder and join the back in a diagonal seam. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The bodice front linings are separate from the bodice fronts, with a hem casing and drawstring at the neckline. The centre back seam is boned on either side. The coarse linen stitched around the neckline and lower edge of bodice fronts was added later, probably to protect the fraying silk underneath. |
Dimensions |
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Style | |
Production type | Unique |
Credit line | Given by Hermoine Field |
Summary | This gown shows how the traditional construction techniques of 18th-century dressmaking adapted to the high-waisted styles that became popular in the late 1790s. Pleating remained a convenient method of fitting a gown to the individual wearer and retaining fullness at the back. Here the silk is arranged in a series of narrow pleats on either side of the centre back. This produced the desired Neo-classical style: a closely fitting upper bodice with a full, slightly trained skirt. The pale colour of the silk with small abstract motifs also demonstrates the Neo-classical influence. In keeping with earlier 18th-century styles, the gown is open at the front, to be worn over a petticoat. The cut of the bodice, however, conforms to the new high-waisted style, gathered at the waist with a drawstring neckline. A lining in the form of an inner linen bodice is another legacy of earlier construction techniques. |
Bibliographic reference | Hart, Avril and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A Publications, 1998, p.58
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Collection | |
Accession number | T.116-1938 |
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Record created | August 15, 2006 |
Record URL |
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