Girdle
1745 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
The tradition of using expensive marriage belts of archaic design survived with women’s traditional costume in many parts of Nordic and German-speaking Europe until the 19th century. These belts were usually based on the kind worn by the aristocracy in late medieval and renaissance times.
The velvet facing on this belt, and the metallic lace trim along its edges, is typical of traditional marriage belts from the Nordic region. The circular clasp, with two hooks on the back which fasten into corresponding rectangular loops at the ends of the terminals, is a feature which is specific to Icelandic belts. By the 19th century the rectangular cast plaques, and the classical allusions on them, had been largely replaced by filigree, but the design of the clasp remained the same.
The maker’s marks show that this belt was made in Copenhagen around 1745, by a member of the Copenhagen Goldsmiths’ guild who was born in Iceland. Iceland was too small to provide a fulltime living for silversmiths before the 19th century, and most of those working on the island in previous centuries underwent their apprenticeship abroad, often in Copenhagen. Many stayed abroad after achieving their mastership, but retained close links with their homeland, as this belt shows. It must have been made for an Icelandic client, from the design of the clasp.
The velvet facing on this belt, and the metallic lace trim along its edges, is typical of traditional marriage belts from the Nordic region. The circular clasp, with two hooks on the back which fasten into corresponding rectangular loops at the ends of the terminals, is a feature which is specific to Icelandic belts. By the 19th century the rectangular cast plaques, and the classical allusions on them, had been largely replaced by filigree, but the design of the clasp remained the same.
The maker’s marks show that this belt was made in Copenhagen around 1745, by a member of the Copenhagen Goldsmiths’ guild who was born in Iceland. Iceland was too small to provide a fulltime living for silversmiths before the 19th century, and most of those working on the island in previous centuries underwent their apprenticeship abroad, often in Copenhagen. Many stayed abroad after achieving their mastership, but retained close links with their homeland, as this belt shows. It must have been made for an Icelandic client, from the design of the clasp.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
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Materials and techniques | Cast and chased silver-gilt plaques on brown velvet with metallic lace trim and floral printed cotton lining |
Brief description | Belt of silver-gilt plaques with classical figures on brown velvet lined with floral cotton, Denmark and Iceland, 1745. |
Physical description | Brown velvet belt with silver-gilt mounts and clasp. The belt is made of dark brown velvet, lined with a piece of floral printed cotton, with metallic lace along the two edges. There are nine rectangular silver-gilt plaques sewn along the length of the belt, each cast and pierced with two alternating renaissance-style images. One shows the seated figure of a woman pouring liquid from a jar, while the other has a naked child. Each of these figures is placed between two winged cherub’s heads. Each of the two end plaques has a rectangular loop on its outside edge, to which is attached a circular silver clasp, gilded on the front. The clasp is cast with a design of two classical figures, one holding a snake, the other with a helmet, and shield bearing the inscription ‘ABI LIVOR TIBI NON SPIRAT’. |
Marks and inscriptions | 'STS' in cursive script over date 1745, in a rounded rectangular frame which may have had beading round the edge. All very worn. (Twice on back of clasp.)
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Credit line | Given by Walter Child |
Object history | Note from donor: 'Purchased by me, 25 August 1900, at Thingvella, Iceland, from the owner of the hotel at that place. He acted as agent to the owner Steinunn, the daughter of Erik, the widow of a priest, in whose family it had been handed down, and could be traced back about 5 generations. From the east of Iceland.' |
Summary | The tradition of using expensive marriage belts of archaic design survived with women’s traditional costume in many parts of Nordic and German-speaking Europe until the 19th century. These belts were usually based on the kind worn by the aristocracy in late medieval and renaissance times. The velvet facing on this belt, and the metallic lace trim along its edges, is typical of traditional marriage belts from the Nordic region. The circular clasp, with two hooks on the back which fasten into corresponding rectangular loops at the ends of the terminals, is a feature which is specific to Icelandic belts. By the 19th century the rectangular cast plaques, and the classical allusions on them, had been largely replaced by filigree, but the design of the clasp remained the same. The maker’s marks show that this belt was made in Copenhagen around 1745, by a member of the Copenhagen Goldsmiths’ guild who was born in Iceland. Iceland was too small to provide a fulltime living for silversmiths before the 19th century, and most of those working on the island in previous centuries underwent their apprenticeship abroad, often in Copenhagen. Many stayed abroad after achieving their mastership, but retained close links with their homeland, as this belt shows. It must have been made for an Icelandic client, from the design of the clasp. |
Collection | |
Accession number | 2061&A-1900 |
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Record created | August 1, 2006 |
Record URL |
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