Girdle of silver, parcel-gilt, with cast filigree work, possibly Germany or Scandinavia, 1700-1799.

Silver-gilt belt with applied silver decoration. The belt consists of 20 cast rectangular pieces, each with two holes at each end with a cherub’s head between them. Both the long sides of each rectangle are decorated with cast granules. The front of each rectangle is covered with a flat openwork plaque, cast to look like three filigree rosettes, which is nailed to the ground. The 20 rectangular pieces alternate with 18 square ones, of the same width as the rectangular pieces and with two holes at each end, with a cast lozenge on the front rising to a central pyramid. The square and rectangular pieces are joined to each other by rings of thick silver wire, grooved to look like twisted wire. The series of square and rectangular plaques is broken on the right side, as the belt is worn, by an openwork cast piece with a wide loop at the bottom, and a lozenge, matching those on the squares, on its centre. It is linked to the rectangular piece on each side by a cherub’s head on a ring soldered to the end of the rectangular piece. The belt is fastened by a clasp, which is hinged to the two ends of the belt. One end has a vertical oval plaque, with a silver pierced disc of imitation filigree, matching those on the rectangular pieces, nailed to its centre, and a long hook on its back. The other end has a small cast motif, with a hole in a square frame at its end.

This belt was described as from Nuremberg, ca. 1490, when it was acquired in 1872. Although its appearance is late medieval, there are many details which suggest that it was more probably made much later, in medieval style.

Rich marriage belts of late medieval or renaissance design continued in use with traditional costume in much of Europe, from Iceland to Slovenia, up to the 19th century. These belts were purely ornamental, and were worn, only by women, over the outer clothing, often slung low over the hips, which explains their great length. The ornamental loop, or hanger, at the right-hand side, was designed to hold a small knife or other household utensils, but was often used only for a large bow by the 19th century.

190-1872