Pinafore Dress thumbnail 1
Pinafore Dress thumbnail 2
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Not on display

Pinafore Dress

1962
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Mary Quant is one of Britain’s most well-known and influential designers. Along with her husband, Alexander Plunket Greene and business partner Archie McNair, she opened her first boutique, Bazaar, on the King’s Road in 1955. She originally stocked clothes from wholesalers but soon became frustrated with the options available and began designing her own clothes. In 1963 she set up the Ginger Group label. Through the Ginger Group she sold pieces at a lower price point than at Bazaar, making her designs available to a wider market. In 1964 she went into business with the Nylon Hosiery Company to create a very successful line of socks, stockings and tights and in 1965 started a collaboration with Alligator Rainwear Ltd. She later expanded into cosmetics and homeware, creating one of the first international lifestyle brands. In many parts of Europe, North America, Australia, and by the 1970s, Japan, almost anyone, whatever their income, could spare the money to buy a pair of 'Mary Quant' tights or a lipstick. This enabled girls who could not otherwise afford her clothing to feel in touch with fashion, and made Mary Quant a household name.

Elizabeth Gibbons became an early fan of Mary Quant's designs, reading about them in 'Life' magazine while living in Singapore with her young family. She first visited the King's Road Bazaar on a brief trip home in 1960, later making purchases by mail order. She carefully kept most of her Mary Quant garments, together with ephemeral receipts, illustrations and letters, which are now in the V&A collections.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Dress
  • Blouse
  • Tie
Materials and techniques
Brief description
Pinafore dress, grey tweed, with striped cotton blouse and spotted silk tie, Mary Quant, 1962. Worn by Elizabeth Gibbons (1928-2018).
Physical description
Ensemble consisting of a pinafore dress of grey wool tweed with striped cotton blouse, and spotted silk tie. The one-piece dress mimics the look of masculine business dress, with a waistcoat-like bodice closing with one button, the seam open at the front, for the tie to show through, and with a horizontal top-stitched seam across the back. Closing with a zip at the centre-back and lined with grey synthetic lining fabric. The blouse has a deep collar and gathered sleeves with deep cuffs which fasten with two brass buttons.
Production typeReady to wear
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'MARY QUANT/LONDON' (Woven label, gold and black, stitched to lining inside back of dress.)
  • 'MARY QUANT/LONDON' (Woven label, silver-grey and black, stitched to lining inside back of dress.)
Gallery label
(30/02/2020)
[Mary Quant Exhibition, 2019]

WAISTCOAT AND TIE DRESS
1962
Worn by Elizabeth Gibbons

With its tailored waistcoat, pinstriped shirt and spotted tie, this ensemble features a number of familiar masculine motifs that Quant consistently returned to in her designs. It is a key example of her playfully rebellious approach to established gender norms in fashion. It featured in one of the few Mary Quant advertisements, probably commissioned to promote the brand’s new wholesale venture, modelled by Celia Hammond.

Wool tweed, cotton and silk
Labelled ‘Mary Quant London’ Made in London
V&A: T.38:1 to 3-2013
Object history
Worn by Elizabeth Gibbons (1928-2018)
Subject depicted
Summary
Mary Quant is one of Britain’s most well-known and influential designers. Along with her husband, Alexander Plunket Greene and business partner Archie McNair, she opened her first boutique, Bazaar, on the King’s Road in 1955. She originally stocked clothes from wholesalers but soon became frustrated with the options available and began designing her own clothes. In 1963 she set up the Ginger Group label. Through the Ginger Group she sold pieces at a lower price point than at Bazaar, making her designs available to a wider market. In 1964 she went into business with the Nylon Hosiery Company to create a very successful line of socks, stockings and tights and in 1965 started a collaboration with Alligator Rainwear Ltd. She later expanded into cosmetics and homeware, creating one of the first international lifestyle brands. In many parts of Europe, North America, Australia, and by the 1970s, Japan, almost anyone, whatever their income, could spare the money to buy a pair of 'Mary Quant' tights or a lipstick. This enabled girls who could not otherwise afford her clothing to feel in touch with fashion, and made Mary Quant a household name.

Elizabeth Gibbons became an early fan of Mary Quant's designs, reading about them in 'Life' magazine while living in Singapore with her young family. She first visited the King's Road Bazaar on a brief trip home in 1960, later making purchases by mail order. She carefully kept most of her Mary Quant garments, together with ephemeral receipts, illustrations and letters, which are now in the V&A collections.
Bibliographic references
  • Illustrated in Jenny Lister (ed) Mary Quant (V&A, London, 2019) fig. 41, page 59
  • Photographed by Terence Donovan, modelled by Celia Hammond, published in a Mary Quant advertisement in Harper's Bazaar, October 1962
Collection
Accession number
T.38:1 to 3-2013

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Record createdMarch 18, 2013
Record URL
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