This type of short jacket which ends at the waist is known as a spencer. The spencer was initially a man’s garment. It is said to have originated in the late 1790s, taking its name from George, the 2nd Earl Spencer (1758-1834). During the early 19th century, fashionable women began to wear female versions of the spencer with evening dress or over their gowns when out walking. It was one of the few women’s garments that were tailored during this period.

This lady’s spencer makes clear reference to gentlemen’s tailoring with its high stand-fall collar, lapels, double-breasted foreparts (fronts) and silver-gilt buttons. The back is cut like a riding habit with a pleated lower back and two hip buttons. It also has military references in the braided edging. It makes a fine comparison piece to men’s tailoring which changed dramatically during the early 19th century due to improvements in cut and construction.