Not on display

Costume Design

1956 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Great Britain’s leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, Oliver Messel (1904-1978) won international acclaim for his lavish, painterly and poetic designs informed by period styles. His work spans ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue. Messel’s traditional style of theatre design became unfashionable from the mid 1950s onwards, and he increasingly concentrated on painting, interior and textile design, including designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Messel designed two versions of Mozart’s opera The Magic Flute (1791), at Covent Garden Opera Trust (1947) and at Glyndebourne (1956), for which he adapted his designs from 1947. These productions were two of the first three stagings of this opera after the end of World War II. Some reviewers found his designs elegant and a fantastic spectacle; however, others found the designs too fussy and elaborate for the small Glyndebourne stage.

The Queen of Night deceives Tamino into believing that Sarastro is evil and must save her daughter, Pamina, who he holds captive. Messel’s inspiration for the gold brocade and jewelled dress may have been the eighteenth century Italian artist Tiepolo’s depiction of Cleopatra in a fresco cycle at the Palazzo Labia, Venice.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Charcoal, pencil, gouache, paint and watercolour on paper
Brief description
Costume design by Oliver Messel for the Queen of Night in Mozart's opera The Magic Flute, Glyndebourne 1956.
Physical description
A costume design by Oliver Messel for the Queen of Night. A full length view of the figure, wearing a dark grey eighteenth century style dress, with gold decoration on the skirt, stomacher and headdress. A long veil is attached to the headress.
Dimensions
  • Height: 37.8cm
  • Width: 25.1cm
Production typeDesign
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Oliver Messel' (Artist's signature on the bottom right-hand corner on the front of the sheet.)
  • 'The painter and the stage. Chichester Antiques Limited' (Label attached to mount (removed by conservator))
Credit line
Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A
Object history
The Magic Flute (1791), an opera in two acts by Mozart with libretto by Schikaneder from Christoph Martin Wieland’s Lulu, or, The Magic Flute. Oliver Messel’s production was first performed at the Royal Opera House, London, by the Covent Garden Opera Trust on 20 March 1947. It was directed by Malcolm Baker-Smith and featured Kenneth Neafe as Tamino and Victoria Sladen as Pamina. This was the first opera that Messel designed. Messel created new costume and set designs for a Glyndebourne production, first presented 19 July, 1956. Directed by Carl Ebert, Ernst Häefliger played Tamino, Pilar Lorengar was Pamina and Drago Bernardic was Sarastro.
Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's theatre designs and other designs and artefacts. The designs were briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being housed at the V&A from 1981 on indefinite loan. The V&A Theatre Museum purchased the Oliver Messel collection from Lord Snowdon in 2005.

Historical significance: Oliver Messel's first costume and set designs for an opera production was in 1947; however, this design is probably for the Glyndebourne production of 1956, during Messel's run as a Glyndebourne theatre designer from 1951 to 1959.
Production
According to the V&A catalogue of 1983, this design is for the 1956 Glyndebourne production.

Reason For Production: Commission
Summary
Great Britain’s leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, Oliver Messel (1904-1978) won international acclaim for his lavish, painterly and poetic designs informed by period styles. His work spans ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue. Messel’s traditional style of theatre design became unfashionable from the mid 1950s onwards, and he increasingly concentrated on painting, interior and textile design, including designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Messel designed two versions of Mozart’s opera The Magic Flute (1791), at Covent Garden Opera Trust (1947) and at Glyndebourne (1956), for which he adapted his designs from 1947. These productions were two of the first three stagings of this opera after the end of World War II. Some reviewers found his designs elegant and a fantastic spectacle; however, others found the designs too fussy and elaborate for the small Glyndebourne stage.

The Queen of Night deceives Tamino into believing that Sarastro is evil and must save her daughter, Pamina, who he holds captive. Messel’s inspiration for the gold brocade and jewelled dress may have been the eighteenth century Italian artist Tiepolo’s depiction of Cleopatra in a fresco cycle at the Palazzo Labia, Venice.
Bibliographic references
  • Pinkham, Roger (ed.) Oliver Messel, London, V&A, 1983
  • The Painter and the Stage Chichester, 1962
Other number
ROT 1947 - TM Rotation Number
Collection
Accession number
S.159-2006

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Record createdJune 21, 2006
Record URL
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