Jacket
1760s (weaving), 1780-1795 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Throughout the 18th century fashionable women wore full-length gowns over stays, a stomacher and a full-length skirt for formal wear. They might, however, wear short jackets over their skirts as less formal wear in the morning, or for receiving guests at home, and by the late 1770s a variety of different styles of short gowns or jackets became fashionable. These sometimes derived from those worn by servants and working women, although those garments were often made in less expensive textiles.
This jacket most closely ressembles the casaquin en juste , a simple tight-fitting bodice worn informally by fashionable women over a matching or contrasting full-length skirt. In 1778, the fashion journal Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français depicted a kitchen maid 'newly arrived from the provinces and beginning to learn elegant Parisian airs' (engraving by Le Beau, after Leclerc) in such a bodice, although in plainer fabric and with a shorter sleeve. The long sleeves of this jacket suggest that it dates to the 1780s or 1790s when three-quarter length sleeves ceased to dominate fashionable women's dress.
This jacket most closely ressembles the casaquin en juste , a simple tight-fitting bodice worn informally by fashionable women over a matching or contrasting full-length skirt. In 1778, the fashion journal Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français depicted a kitchen maid 'newly arrived from the provinces and beginning to learn elegant Parisian airs' (engraving by Le Beau, after Leclerc) in such a bodice, although in plainer fabric and with a shorter sleeve. The long sleeves of this jacket suggest that it dates to the 1780s or 1790s when three-quarter length sleeves ceased to dominate fashionable women's dress.
Object details
Category | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silk, linen, cotton; hand-woven, brocaded, block-printed, hand-sewn |
Brief description | Woman's jacket of yellow silk satin, 1780-95, France, brocaded in chrysanthemums in coloured silks, Chinese, 1760s |
Physical description | Woman’s jacket of yellow silk satin brocaded with coloured silks in a design of chrysanthemums. It has a low, V-neckline, long 2-piece sleeves to the wrists. The back with 3 seams for a fitted shape, forming short skirts below the waist. The waistline is just above the natural waist with gores at the sides and side back inserted to shape over the hips. The silk is pieced and the fronts and back lined with linen. The sleeves are partially lined with linen block-printed in black. The caraco is front opening and fastens with five linen tapes sewn to a linen panel on each side. There are 2 silk-covered buttons and 2 buttonholes at the wrist of each sleeve. |
Dimensions |
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Summary | Throughout the 18th century fashionable women wore full-length gowns over stays, a stomacher and a full-length skirt for formal wear. They might, however, wear short jackets over their skirts as less formal wear in the morning, or for receiving guests at home, and by the late 1770s a variety of different styles of short gowns or jackets became fashionable. These sometimes derived from those worn by servants and working women, although those garments were often made in less expensive textiles. This jacket most closely ressembles the casaquin en juste , a simple tight-fitting bodice worn informally by fashionable women over a matching or contrasting full-length skirt. In 1778, the fashion journal Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français depicted a kitchen maid 'newly arrived from the provinces and beginning to learn elegant Parisian airs' (engraving by Le Beau, after Leclerc) in such a bodice, although in plainer fabric and with a shorter sleeve. The long sleeves of this jacket suggest that it dates to the 1780s or 1790s when three-quarter length sleeves ceased to dominate fashionable women's dress. |
Collection | |
Accession number | T.114-2012 |
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Record created | May 16, 2012 |
Record URL |
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