Portfolio of 13 colour prints showing costumes for the ballet Our Army and Navy created for the Alhambra Theatre, London, by the theatrical costumier Charles Alias from designs by Lucien Besche. Printed by Alf Cooke, Leeds, 1889.

Our Army and Navy opened on 1 April 1889 at the Alhambra Theatre, Leicester Square. In essence it was a revised version of the ballet Le Bivouac, created in 1885 in response to the war in the Sudan and the death of General Gordon in Khartoum. The ballet was a patriotic work set in the Portsmouth docks and consisted largely of processions in formation.

The 'Dances and Evolutions' were arranged by Eugenio Casati to music selected, arranged and composed by Georges Jacobi. The costumes were made by Alias from designs by Lucien Besche, with accoutrements by Robert Bennett . The scenery representing Portsmouth harbour was by T.E. Ryan.

Six of the costumes in the portfolio represent a nationality incorporating national insignia and/or flags in sashes with a background showing a ‘typical’ national scene, and seven represent military uniforms worn by members of the British armed forces; the army and navy. The costumes were created for women performing ‘en travestie’ and emphasis the feminine body. This was a ballet without a ballerina (principal dancer), the two dancers who attracted most attention were Minnie Thurgate and Miss Phillips as the Midshipmen.'

The ballet fell into three parts: The Assembly of the British servicemen; the Reception of Nations, and the March Past of the British with military exercises and sham fights, ending with Rule Britannia. The 42nd Highlanders were the tenth group of dancers to appear in the Assembly.

The theatrical newspaper, The Stage, 9 November 1889, noted in its review that the ‘long-limbed Highlanders, are the most striking features in the Alhambra programme’ (pp.11-12). The Topical Times, 6 April 1889, commented that ‘The dresses by Mons. and Madame Alias, from designs by L. Besche, are magnificent, and are as accurate as is compatible with their having to be so idealised as to enable young ladies to wear them and display an attractive amount of arm and leg. The Guards and the Black Watch seemed to be considered handsomest. The highland dance created a great deal of enthusiasm.’