'Malle Haute' travelling trunk
Trunk
c.1910 (made)
c.1910 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
An essential for long-distance travel in the 19th century, this travelling trunk is a luxury example of one of the many types of luggage a European traveller could pack for their journey by rail or water. Constructed from wood, canvas and leather, the trunk was made by Louis Vuitton, former trunk-maker to Eugénie de Montijo, Empress of France, and producer of the era's most exclusive luggage. The trunk is in the 'Malle Haute' style and is covered in the brand's LV monogram canvas, whose eye-catching logo repeat design is today globally recognised as the brand's visual identifier. Several paper labels for First Class travel on the great ocean liners of the early 20th century remain intact upon the exterior. A maker's label to the interior dates the trunk to no earlier than 1900, as the given retail address opened as a Louis Vuitton store in 1900.
With the growing popularity of long-distance rail travel from the mid-19th century, luggage adapted to new modes of transport, drawing on advances in materials and techniques. Whereas early travelling trunks featured rounded-tops to encourage water run-off, Louis Vuitton is credited with introducing the innovative flat-topped trunk to the French market in 1858, an advancement only made possible by its unique water-tight design. This more convenient, stackable form of trunk bore all of Vuitton’s renowned quality, whilst remaining lightweight and sturdy. From this moment on, most travelling trunks utilised a flat-topped form. Matching the evolving demands of luggage necessitated by the late 19th century surge in cross-Atlantic voyaging, the flat-topped trunk made for easier loading and handling, and maximised capacity within the ship's hold. A product of increased global mobility, the trunk exhibits stylistic and functional similarities to its forebears - early portable containers and travelling furniture such as chests, caskets, and coffers, all of which emerged from the centuries-long need to travel with one's possessions contained within a portable and secure vessel.
With the growing popularity of long-distance rail travel from the mid-19th century, luggage adapted to new modes of transport, drawing on advances in materials and techniques. Whereas early travelling trunks featured rounded-tops to encourage water run-off, Louis Vuitton is credited with introducing the innovative flat-topped trunk to the French market in 1858, an advancement only made possible by its unique water-tight design. This more convenient, stackable form of trunk bore all of Vuitton’s renowned quality, whilst remaining lightweight and sturdy. From this moment on, most travelling trunks utilised a flat-topped form. Matching the evolving demands of luggage necessitated by the late 19th century surge in cross-Atlantic voyaging, the flat-topped trunk made for easier loading and handling, and maximised capacity within the ship's hold. A product of increased global mobility, the trunk exhibits stylistic and functional similarities to its forebears - early portable containers and travelling furniture such as chests, caskets, and coffers, all of which emerged from the centuries-long need to travel with one's possessions contained within a portable and secure vessel.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | 'Malle Haute' travelling trunk |
| Materials and techniques | Wood, canvas, leather, metal, silk |
| Brief description | Travelling trunk, wood, canvas, leather, metal, Louis Vuitton, France, c.1910. |
| Physical description | Travelling trunk belonging to the wealthy American socialite Emilie Busbey Grigsby, made by Louis Vuitton. The trunk is of a wooden structure, covered with canvas, and reinforced with leather trims. Brass nails and studs strengthen the structure, which is made secure with brass latches and a brass lock. Brass drop-handles on each side assist with physical handling of the trunk, whilst remaining unobtrusive when not is use. The trunk has a flat, front-opening lid which is cross-hatched with silk ribbons to the interior. To the exterior, several paper labels for First Class travel on the great ocean liners of the early 20th century are still visible. To one end of the trunk a square motif is painted in red and black, thought to be an identification marker unique to its owner; marking your luggage with a unique identifier continues to be a common practice amongst travellers, aiding in the process of baggage reclaim. The trunk is in the 'Malle Haute' style and is covered in the brand’s LV monogram canvas, which has faded over large expanses of the trunk. |
| Dimensions |
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| Gallery label | Paper labels glued to the outside of this Louis Vuitton monogrammed trunk reveal that it was one of 13 pieces of luggage which accompanied Emilie Busbey Grigsby on board some of the most significant ocean liners of the 20th century. These included Lusitania and Aquitania on the Cunard Line, and Titanic‘s sister ship, Olympic, on the White Star Line. The trunk would have protected and transported Emilie’s outfits, many of which are held today by the V&A.
V&A, Room 40, Bags: Inside Out. (12/2020) |
| Association | |
| Summary | An essential for long-distance travel in the 19th century, this travelling trunk is a luxury example of one of the many types of luggage a European traveller could pack for their journey by rail or water. Constructed from wood, canvas and leather, the trunk was made by Louis Vuitton, former trunk-maker to Eugénie de Montijo, Empress of France, and producer of the era's most exclusive luggage. The trunk is in the 'Malle Haute' style and is covered in the brand's LV monogram canvas, whose eye-catching logo repeat design is today globally recognised as the brand's visual identifier. Several paper labels for First Class travel on the great ocean liners of the early 20th century remain intact upon the exterior. A maker's label to the interior dates the trunk to no earlier than 1900, as the given retail address opened as a Louis Vuitton store in 1900. With the growing popularity of long-distance rail travel from the mid-19th century, luggage adapted to new modes of transport, drawing on advances in materials and techniques. Whereas early travelling trunks featured rounded-tops to encourage water run-off, Louis Vuitton is credited with introducing the innovative flat-topped trunk to the French market in 1858, an advancement only made possible by its unique water-tight design. This more convenient, stackable form of trunk bore all of Vuitton’s renowned quality, whilst remaining lightweight and sturdy. From this moment on, most travelling trunks utilised a flat-topped form. Matching the evolving demands of luggage necessitated by the late 19th century surge in cross-Atlantic voyaging, the flat-topped trunk made for easier loading and handling, and maximised capacity within the ship's hold. A product of increased global mobility, the trunk exhibits stylistic and functional similarities to its forebears - early portable containers and travelling furniture such as chests, caskets, and coffers, all of which emerged from the centuries-long need to travel with one's possessions contained within a portable and secure vessel. |
| Bibliographic reference | Bags V&A Exhibition (Project)
Bags: Inside Out (2020) Lucia Savi, V&A Publishing, pg 78
|
| Other number | NCOL.421-2011 - Previous number |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | W.12-2019 |
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| Record created | July 22, 2011 |
| Record URL |
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