Ring thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Ring

late 18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This ring was clearly made as a mourning jewel, commemorating E. Tempest, who died 3 July, 1784 at the age of 76 but it may have originally been a slide. Mourning slides were small jewels set on ribbons which were tied around the wrist. The back of the bezel shows signs of fixing points suggesting that it has been modified and the hoop of the ring cuts across the inscription. The bezel of the ring is set with a funerary urn which has been made up from chopped hair (presumably the hair of the deceased) and small gold decorations.

From the early seventeenth to the end of the nineteenth century, testators left money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families. Simple bands enamelled with the name and life dates of the deceased were frequently made, sometimes set with a gemstone or a bezel set with a rock crystal covering a symbol such as a coffin or initials in gold wire. In the later 18th century, rings followed neo-classical designs, their oval bezels often decorated with the same designs as funerary monuments such as urns, broken pillars and mourning figures. Hair from the deceased was incorporated into the designs or set in a compartment at the back of the ring to give each jewel a uniquely personal element. Black or white enamel were favoured though white enamel was often, though not universally used to commemorate children and unmarried adults. By the end of the 19th century, memorial ring designs were becoming more standardised. The hoops were often inscribed with phrases such as 'In memory' whilst a commemorative inscription could be added to the inside of the hoop. The custom of giving rings as memorials gradually declined in the early 20th century, although the Goldsmiths Journal suggests that some were still being sold in the 1930s.



Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Engraved gold ring, ivory or bone bezel with worked hair
Brief description
Gold mourning ring with a Marquise bezel of ivory or bone, decorated with an urn worked in hair with gold fittings. Inscribed behind E. Tempest. Ob: July:3:1784A(et) 76(?)., England, late 18th century
Physical description
Gold mourning ring with a Marquise bezel of ivory or bone, decorated with an urn worked in hair with gold fittings. Inscribed behind E. Tempest. Ob: July:3:1784A(et) 76(?).
Dimensions
  • Height: 2.4cm
  • Width: 2.2cm
  • Depth: 3.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
Inscribed E. Tempest. Ob: July:3:1784A(et) 76(?). (behind)
Object history
Part of a group of memorial and mourning jewels bought from Dr Marco Guastalla, acting on behalf of 'an English lady residing in Italy' (museum numbers 846-1888 to 989-1888)
Subjects depicted
Summary
This ring was clearly made as a mourning jewel, commemorating E. Tempest, who died 3 July, 1784 at the age of 76 but it may have originally been a slide. Mourning slides were small jewels set on ribbons which were tied around the wrist. The back of the bezel shows signs of fixing points suggesting that it has been modified and the hoop of the ring cuts across the inscription. The bezel of the ring is set with a funerary urn which has been made up from chopped hair (presumably the hair of the deceased) and small gold decorations.

From the early seventeenth to the end of the nineteenth century, testators left money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families. Simple bands enamelled with the name and life dates of the deceased were frequently made, sometimes set with a gemstone or a bezel set with a rock crystal covering a symbol such as a coffin or initials in gold wire. In the later 18th century, rings followed neo-classical designs, their oval bezels often decorated with the same designs as funerary monuments such as urns, broken pillars and mourning figures. Hair from the deceased was incorporated into the designs or set in a compartment at the back of the ring to give each jewel a uniquely personal element. Black or white enamel were favoured though white enamel was often, though not universally used to commemorate children and unmarried adults. By the end of the 19th century, memorial ring designs were becoming more standardised. The hoops were often inscribed with phrases such as 'In memory' whilst a commemorative inscription could be added to the inside of the hoop. The custom of giving rings as memorials gradually declined in the early 20th century, although the Goldsmiths Journal suggests that some were still being sold in the 1930s.

Bibliographic reference
Oman, Charles, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1930, reprinted Ipswich, 1993, cat. 849
Collection
Accession number
871-1888

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Record createdApril 25, 2006
Record URL
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