Not on display

Shirt

1994-1995 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This shirt is made from muga silk fabric that has been stitched into 1cm pleats all over, including the sleeves. It is called 'Pehran' by the makers, but is not the same as the traditional garment of that name from Kashmir.

The shirt was designed by Asha Sarabhai and made in her workshop, Raag, which is based in Ahmedabad, India. The general trend in many parts of India is for craftspeople to be forced into producing cheap substandard products for mass consumption. The philosophy behind Raag, however, is to enable skilled craftspeople to produce extremely high-quality textiles and clothing. These pieces can be identified by the use of vegetable dyes and the fineness of the hand- and machine-stitching.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Muga silk, undyed; pleated and applique
Brief description
Shirt of undyed silk, pleated front, made by Raag in Ahmadabad, Gujarat, India, 1994-95
Physical description
This shirt is called 'Pehran' by the makers, but is not the same as the traditional kashmiri garment of that name. The muga silk fabric is stitched into 1cm pleats all over including the sleeves. It has a square cut neck around which is a panel of unpleated silk with an applique chevron design. There are no fastinings or pockets. There are two side vents.
Dimensions
  • Length: 77cm
  • Width at bottom width: 61.5cm
Production
Raag is a workshop set up by the textile designer Asha Sarabhai in Ahmedabad, India. Whereas the general trend in many parts of India is for craftspeople to be forced into producing cheap sub-standard products for mass consumption, the philosophy behind Raag is to enable skilled craftspeople to produce extremely high quality textiles and clothing. The textiles are marked by the use of vegetable dyes, and the fineness of the hand and machine stitching.
Summary
This shirt is made from muga silk fabric that has been stitched into 1cm pleats all over, including the sleeves. It is called 'Pehran' by the makers, but is not the same as the traditional garment of that name from Kashmir.

The shirt was designed by Asha Sarabhai and made in her workshop, Raag, which is based in Ahmedabad, India. The general trend in many parts of India is for craftspeople to be forced into producing cheap substandard products for mass consumption. The philosophy behind Raag, however, is to enable skilled craftspeople to produce extremely high-quality textiles and clothing. These pieces can be identified by the use of vegetable dyes and the fineness of the hand- and machine-stitching.
Bibliographic reference
Dress in detail from around the world / Rosemary Crill, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson ; with contributions from Anna Jackson and Charlotte Horlyck ; photographs by Richard Davis, drawings by Leonie Davis. London: V&A Publications, 2002 Number: 1851773770 (hbk), 1851773789 (pbk) pp.170-171 ill.
Collection
Accession number
IS.21-1995

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Record createdApril 13, 2006
Record URL
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