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Collar

late 19th Century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Collar of embroidered black silk satin for a civil Mandarin of the ninth rank. The collar, which has a flaring, pointed shape, is stiffened with paper or cardboard. The embroidered design features five five-clawed dragons (one front facing, the other passing) chasing pearls among clouds in silver and silver-gilt thread, and green and white silk. Below the dragons is a design of rocks and waves. The borders are trimmed with a dark blue self-patterned fabric with a gold-paper supplementary weft. The collar fastens at the front with two loops and has a pink twill lining with a damask fret pattern.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Embroidered and stiffened silk satin with mteallic thread, lined with silk
Brief description
Collar of embroidered silk satin with metallic thread, China, late 19th century
Physical description
Collar of embroidered black silk satin for a civil Mandarin of the ninth rank. The collar, which has a flaring, pointed shape, is stiffened with paper or cardboard. The embroidered design features five five-clawed dragons (one front facing, the other passing) chasing pearls among clouds in silver and silver-gilt thread, and green and white silk. Below the dragons is a design of rocks and waves. The borders are trimmed with a dark blue self-patterned fabric with a gold-paper supplementary weft. The collar fastens at the front with two loops and has a pink twill lining with a damask fret pattern.
Dimensions
  • Width: 29in
  • Depth: 13.25in
Style
Credit line
Given in memory of Edwin Darlington C.I.E., Father of the Donor
Object history
Part of an ensemble T.40 to J-1956 for a Mandarin of the ninth rank. A ninth rank Mandarin is an unplaced official.

The piling (shoulder collar), whether embroidered or woven with dragon designs against a dark blue ground was generally bordered with a wide band of blue and gold silk. It was either attached to the top button of the outer coat by means of loop, or else had its own independent closing device. This wide detachable collar was closely associated with court dress. It was frequently worn as part of the full costume of civil servants.
Bibliographic references
  • Garrett, Valery M. A Collector's Guide to Chinese Dress Accessories. Singapore: Times Editions, 1997.
  • Garrett, Valery M.Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide. New York: Oxford University Press, 1994.
  • Wilson, Verity. Chinese Dress. London: V&A Publications, 1986. p.28
Collection
Accession number
T.40H-1956

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Record createdJune 29, 2011
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