Or are you looking for Search the Archives?

Please complete the form to email this item.

Mantle

Mantle

  • Place of origin:

    London (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1885 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Redmayne and Co. (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Velvet, feathers and braided pendant tassels

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Joanna Wellington, in memory of Ella Annesley Voysey

  • Museum number:

    T.653-1996

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Dolmans were outdoor garments designed to be worn over the fashionable bustles of the 1870s and 1880s. This one is designed so the back would sit comfortably over even the most extreme bustle shape of about 1885. The front, back and sleeves are trimmed with exotic marabou feathers made into wide bands and interspersed with small, flat feathers, probably from some type of domestic fowl, and dyed to a lighter tone. This gives a interesting almost sparkle to the trimming as the flat feathers catch the light. Heavy wooden braid-covered pendant tassels are used to trim the pointed panels of the garment. The weight of these provides a contrast to the lightness of the feather decoration and would help to keep the panels hanging straight when the dolman was being worn.

Peacock feathers were a popular design motif in the 1860s to 1880s. Marabou trimming, obtained from the downy underwing feathers of the marabou stork became particularly fashionable in the second half of the 19th century. These birds were native to most part of the southern two thirds of Africa. Their downy feathers could be dyed any colour required and fashioned into long ropes of luxurious trimming, almost fur-like in appearance, as illustrated on this garment.

Physical description

Dolman mantle of cut and uncut velvet with a feather trim and braided pendants tassels for decoration.

Place of Origin

London (made)

Date

ca. 1885 (made)

Artist/maker

Redmayne and Co. (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Velvet, feathers and braided pendant tassels

Descriptive line

Dolman mantle of velvet, Redmayne and Co., London, ca. 1885

Categories

Fashion; Women's clothes; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

Large image request

Please confirm you are using these images within the following terms and conditions, by acknowledging each of the following key points:

Please let us know how you intend to use the images you will be downloading.