Skirts reached some of their most exaggerated proportions during the 1860s. They tended to be flatter in the front than the rounded shapes of the 1850s, and fanned out behind creating a enormous expanse of fabric and a wide circumference at the hem. Skirts of this dimension were often worn over cage petticoats made of steel hoops to give them their distinctive shape. The increasing width made the waist look smaller and this effect was accentuated by Swiss belts, a type of waistband pointed above and below. This belt has long pointed 'lappets' stiffened with whalebone to create a smooth line over the hips.

A variety of patterned fabrics and trimmings added to the dramatic effect of these styles. This fashionable evening dress is ornamented with applied velvet bands and loops creating a castellated effect on the bodice and base of the skirt. A delicate lace edging emphasises the low neckline, while the fabric stripes slant inwards towards the waist and outwards over the petticoat, following the contours of the silhouette. The 'lappets' adorning the shoulders and the Swiss belt are trimmed with tassels composed of silk fringe and wooden balls covered in interlocking gimp (silk wrapped around a cotton core).