Ring thumbnail 1
Ring thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Ring

1200-1400 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

During the Middle Ages, gemstones were most often set as polished but unfacetted cabochons. This ring is set with a sapphire which has been polished and set in a high, projecting bezel but remains a very irregular shape.

Sapphires were highly valued for their heavenly blue colour and supposed magical qualities. The lapidary of Marbodus, bishop of Rennes (1067-81) describes the properties of 60 gemstones. Sapphires were believed to cool the body, soothe headaches and ulcers, and cure stammers. Rings found in bishops' tombs suggest that they were particularly favoured as episcopal rings.

This ring forms part of a collection of over 600 rings and engraved gems from the collection of Edmund Waterton (1830-81). Waterton was one of the foremost ring collectors of the nineteenth century and was the author of several articles on rings, a book on English devotion to the Virgin Mary and an unfinished catalogue of his collection (the manuscript is now the National Art Library). Waterton was noted for his extravagance and financial troubles caused him to place his collection in pawn with the London jeweller Robert Phillips. When he was unable to repay the loan, Phillips offered to sell the collection to the Museum and it was acquired in 1871. A small group of rings which Waterton had held back were acquired in 1899.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold set with a cabochon sapphire
Brief description
Gold ring set with a cabochon sapphire, Western Europe, 1300-1400.
Physical description
Gold ring, the projecting four claw bezel is set with a sapphire, with forked shoulders.
Dimensions
  • Height: 3.1cm
  • Width: 2.2cm
  • Depth: 1.3cm
Object history
Formerly in the Waterton Collection

Historical significance: Similar rings were found in the treasure of Slagelse in Denmark, the treasure of Colmar and in the Chalcis hoard. A similar ring inscribed 'ici a lieu' is in the Koch collection (Chadour, Beatriz, Rings: the Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Leeds, 1994, cat. 572). Another ring with a raised collet set with an emerald is in the British Museum (1899, 5-20,1), also with a French inscription.
Summary
During the Middle Ages, gemstones were most often set as polished but unfacetted cabochons. This ring is set with a sapphire which has been polished and set in a high, projecting bezel but remains a very irregular shape.

Sapphires were highly valued for their heavenly blue colour and supposed magical qualities. The lapidary of Marbodus, bishop of Rennes (1067-81) describes the properties of 60 gemstones. Sapphires were believed to cool the body, soothe headaches and ulcers, and cure stammers. Rings found in bishops' tombs suggest that they were particularly favoured as episcopal rings.

This ring forms part of a collection of over 600 rings and engraved gems from the collection of Edmund Waterton (1830-81). Waterton was one of the foremost ring collectors of the nineteenth century and was the author of several articles on rings, a book on English devotion to the Virgin Mary and an unfinished catalogue of his collection (the manuscript is now the National Art Library). Waterton was noted for his extravagance and financial troubles caused him to place his collection in pawn with the London jeweller Robert Phillips. When he was unable to repay the loan, Phillips offered to sell the collection to the Museum and it was acquired in 1871. A small group of rings which Waterton had held back were acquired in 1899.
Bibliographic references
  • Church, Rachel, Rings, London, V&A Publishing, 2011, cat. 11
  • Bury, Shirley, Introduction to Rings, London, 1984, cat. 26 C
  • Oman, Charles, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1930, reprinted Ipswich, 1993, cat. 245, p.66
Collection
Accession number
645-1871

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Record createdMarch 13, 2006
Record URL
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