Robe thumbnail 1
Robe thumbnail 2
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Robe

ca. 1600 (woven), post 1600 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This silk tapestry of bright colours and bold patterns was woven probably around 1600. The front and back of the robe indicate that the textile was consciously woven to be tailored later as a garment.

The various symbols used indicate that this textile might have been associated with a birthday. The Chinese word for deer is ‘lu’, and the deer becomes a symbol of rank and remuneration which are also signified by ‘lu’. The peony motif signifies wealth and distinction, while the crane and the longevity (‘shou’) characters are emblems of good wishes for a long life. This robe is the earliest datable whole garment in the V&A's collection of Chinese textiles.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Fragments
Materials and techniques
Silk tapestry (<i>kesi</i>)
Brief description
Robe, tapestry-weave silk (kesi) with gold thread, China, about 1600
Physical description
A brightly coloured kesi silk woven robe decorated with paired deer, longevity characters and meandering peony flowers.
At least 22 colours have been identified in the weave of the textile used to tailor the robe, in addition to gold.
Dimensions
  • Length: 113cm
  • Width: 180cm
Content description
Long life characters are included in the design of the woven textile.
Styles
Credit line
Purchased with a grant donated by Lady Garner
Object history
Registered File number 1985/1533.
'taken apart for conservation in the 1980s' (Wilson, Chinese Textiles, p. 76)
Production
The material was woven circa 1600, and tailored or altered later.
Subjects depicted
Place depicted
Summary
This silk tapestry of bright colours and bold patterns was woven probably around 1600. The front and back of the robe indicate that the textile was consciously woven to be tailored later as a garment.

The various symbols used indicate that this textile might have been associated with a birthday. The Chinese word for deer is ‘lu’, and the deer becomes a symbol of rank and remuneration which are also signified by ‘lu’. The peony motif signifies wealth and distinction, while the crane and the longevity (‘shou’) characters are emblems of good wishes for a long life. This robe is the earliest datable whole garment in the V&A's collection of Chinese textiles.
Bibliographic references
  • Wilson, Verity, Chinese Textiles, London: V&A Publications, 2005, pp. 77 & 104, fig. 85 & 116
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
FE.41:1,2-1985

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Record createdFebruary 16, 2006
Record URL
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