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Jewellery Design

Design
ca 1860s (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This design comes from 'The Brogden Album', the album contained 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles.

The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.

Charlotte Isabella Newman, also known as Mrs Philip Newman, was the first important female studio jeweller to run a workshop under her name in London. She studied at the Government School of Design at Somerset House and then at South Kensington where she was encouraged by V&A founder Sir Henry Cole to design a variety of decorative objects including carpets, china and textile fabrics. In 1860, Charlotte married ecclesiastical draughtsman, Philip Harry Newman (1840–1927) who had trained at the St Martin’s and Spitalfields schools of art.

Following her training, Newman became a designer for Brogden who soon came to realise that Newman’s status as a female designer and her unique designs (she rarely produced more than one of each design) would appeal to his élite female clientele. Newman drew inspiration from a range of historical sources and was inspired by the excavations and discoveries of Roman, Egyptian, Hellenistic and Etruscan sites, this type of jewellery was referred to as ‘archaeological revival jewellery’. Brogden and Newman exhibited at the Paris exhibitions of 1867 and 1878, and in 1878 she was awarded the Médaille d’Honneur as ‘collaboratrice’ while Brogden received the Croix de la Légion d’Honneur.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleJewellery Design (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Drawing in pencil and watercolour on card.
Brief description
Design for jewellery by Charlotte Isabella Newman (Mrs Philip Newman), 1860s.
Physical description
Rectangular card with a pencil and watercolour drawing depicting a design for a gold bracelet with a central oval-shaped gold ornament inlaid with blue stones, possibly turquoise.
Dimensions
  • Height: 10.7cm
  • Width: 22cm
Styles
Production typeDesign
Marks and inscriptions
'N' handwritten in pencil in the bottom right hand corner stands for Charlotte Isabella Newman. 'John Brogden' written in black ink in the bottom left hand corner.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This design comes from 'The Brogden Album', the album contained 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles.

The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.

Charlotte Isabella Newman, also known as Mrs Philip Newman, was the first important female studio jeweller to run a workshop under her name in London. She studied at the Government School of Design at Somerset House and then at South Kensington where she was encouraged by V&A founder Sir Henry Cole to design a variety of decorative objects including carpets, china and textile fabrics. In 1860, Charlotte married ecclesiastical draughtsman, Philip Harry Newman (1840–1927) who had trained at the St Martin’s and Spitalfields schools of art.

Following her training, Newman became a designer for Brogden who soon came to realise that Newman’s status as a female designer and her unique designs (she rarely produced more than one of each design) would appeal to his élite female clientele. Newman drew inspiration from a range of historical sources and was inspired by the excavations and discoveries of Roman, Egyptian, Hellenistic and Etruscan sites, this type of jewellery was referred to as ‘archaeological revival jewellery’. Brogden and Newman exhibited at the Paris exhibitions of 1867 and 1878, and in 1878 she was awarded the Médaille d’Honneur as ‘collaboratrice’ while Brogden received the Croix de la Légion d’Honneur.
Bibliographic reference
Huits, Lieske. "At Once 'Ancient' and 'Modern': The Art-Journal's Illustrated Catalogues and the Notion of Adaptation in Nineteenth-Century Historicism", Nineteenth-Century Art Worldwide 21, no. 3 (Autumn 2022), https://doi.org/10.29411/ncaw.2022.21.3.2.
Collection
Accession number
E.2:674-1986

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Record createdFebruary 1, 2011
Record URL
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