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Not on display

Musique de Nuit

Evening Dress
1956-1957 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This dress was designed by Christian Dior for his autumn/winter 1956-7 collection, called La Ligne Aimant (the ‘Magnet line’). It was called Musique de Nuit (‘Night Music’) by Dior, who gave individual names to all his designs.

It was donated to the V&A by Baronne Martine de Courcel, wife of the French Ambassador to London (1962-65). The wives of diplomats played a very important role in promoting couture across the world. They were photographed at high-society events and interviewed for newspaper articles. Often, they would be given dresses by the couturiers, who benefited from the publicity.

This dress was depicted in a photograph taken by Richard Avedon for American Harper’s Bazaar, October 1956. The image shown here displays the dress in a pose reminiscent of that photograph, created for the 2007 V&A exhibition The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Titles
  • Musique de Nuit (assigned by artist)
  • La Ligne Aimant (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Silk faille lined with silk, boned and stiffened net
Brief description
Ankle-length evening dress 'Musique de Nuit' from 'La Ligne Aimant', of silk faille, designed by Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior, Paris, 1956-1957
Physical description
Ankle-length evening dress of smoke grey silk faille and with a princess line. The bodice has a low V-neck at the front, draped into a tie and higher V-neck at the back. Three-quarter length sleeves and a centre back zip. The petticoat attached inside is boned, with a black net top and black silk and stiffened net skirts. Lined with silk.
Dimensions
  • Bust circumference: 86cm
  • Waist circumference: 63cm
  • Bottom hem circumference: 300cm
  • Weight: 2.5kg
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Christian Dior Paris / Made in France' (Label, white on black, inside bodice)
  • 140808 (Number printed on back of label)
Gallery label
(September 2007)
[For The Golden Age of Couture exhibition, the dress was displayed on a mannequin posed as (- and in a replication of the back-drop of - ) Suzy Parker in the Harper's Bazaar shot by Richard Avedon:]

'Musique de Nuit' dinner dress
Christian Dior (1905-57)
Paris
1956-7 autumn/winter

Silk faille by Lajoinie, lined with black silk and stiffened net

Given by Madame de Courcel
V&A: T.124-1974
Credit line
Given by Madame de Courcel
Object history
The dress was donated by Baronne Martine de Courcel, wife of Baron Geoffroy de Courcel, French Ambassador to Great Britain (1962-65). Worn by the donor.

The original model at Dior was Renée.

The label, reading 'Christian Dior Paris Made in France' suggests that the dress was purchased outside France, possibly at Liberty's of London as per the entry in Vogue (UK), October 1956.

An identical model, with original stole, was sold at Doyle's auction house, New York, for $15,535 on 21 April 2004 (lot 2038). Attributed to Yves Saint Laurent for Dior.
The label read:
Christian Dior/ Paris /Automne-Hiver 1956 / 82373 and tape label 82373/S.c.c.
Bergdorf Goodman/Robe Musique-de-Nuit-/ Made in France.
Information provided by the dealer, Clair Watson, about the buyer:
"it was purchased by an English agent (well known pair) who buy mainly for Asia"
Association
Summary
This dress was designed by Christian Dior for his autumn/winter 1956-7 collection, called La Ligne Aimant (the ‘Magnet line’). It was called Musique de Nuit (‘Night Music’) by Dior, who gave individual names to all his designs.

It was donated to the V&A by Baronne Martine de Courcel, wife of the French Ambassador to London (1962-65). The wives of diplomats played a very important role in promoting couture across the world. They were photographed at high-society events and interviewed for newspaper articles. Often, they would be given dresses by the couturiers, who benefited from the publicity.

This dress was depicted in a photograph taken by Richard Avedon for American Harper’s Bazaar, October 1956. The image shown here displays the dress in a pose reminiscent of that photograph, created for the 2007 V&A exhibition The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957.
Associated object
PH.24-1985 (Depiction)
Bibliographic references
  • American Harper's Bazaar, October 1956, pages 144-5. Suzy Parker, photographed by Richard Avedon.
  • Bailey, David, ed., Shots of Style; (London: V&A Publications, 1985)
  • Richard Avedon, Avedon Photographs 1947-57 (Thames and Hudson, 1978), p.128
  • Judith Thurman, Richard Avedon: Made in France (Fraenkel Gallery, San Fransisco: 2001)
  • Thomas, A., 'Richard Avedon' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.200-1
  • Vogue (British edition) October 1956, p.144
  • Dior Archives, Paris
  • Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971
Other number
140808 - Dior label number
Collection
Accession number
T.124-1974

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Record createdOctober 10, 2005
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