Theatre Costume thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Theatre Costume

1892 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This Cardinal's hat was made for Henry Irving (1838-1905) as part of his costume for Cardinal Wolsey in Henry VIII by William Shakespeare (1564-1616). In keeping with leading actors before him, Irving chose the role of the Cardinal for its complex and arresting character, heightened visually by his costume of a vivid pink colour. Irving's Wolsey was a mixture of asceticism and malignity, a religious man who rose from humble beginnings to attain a position of great influence as the King's Lord Chancellor. It was this, coupled with Wolsey's eventual loss of power and status, that attracted Irving to the part. To ensure historical accuracy, Irving employed John Seymour Lucas (1849-1923), a Royal Academician and Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, to oversee the design of the costumes.

Irving became a professional actor in 1856, and learned his trade in regional theatres until 1866, when he came to London. He joined the Lyceum Theatre company under the management of H. L. Bateman in 1871, winning great acclaim that year for his psychologically developed characterisation of the guilt-ridden inn-keeper Mathias in Leopold Lewis's melodrama The Bells. He took on the responsibilities of 'actor-manager' in 1878 when he assumed the management of the Lyceum, and remained there until 1902, enjoying star status with his leading lady Ellen Terry (1847-1928). Irving produced a diverse range of old and new plays at the Lyceum, including Shakespeare, historical drama, and literary adaptations. His tireless work to elevate the status of the theatrical profession was rewarded in 1895 when he became the first actor ever to receive a knighthood for services to the Theatre.

Irving specialised in spectacularly staged productions with large casts of performers. He commissioned designers and composers to create appropriate scenery, costume and incidental music, played by a full orchestra. Although electric lighting was available from the 1880s, Irving preferred the softer effects of gas, with lime light to focus attention at key points in the play. Irving toured complete productions outside London, taking the full company, scenery and costumes throughout the United Kingdom and across the United States and Canada. The development of the railway system made his the first generation able to achieve this level of touring productions.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton with silk
Brief description
Red silk cardinal's hat with wool tassel, worn by Henry Irving as Wolsey in 'Henry VIII', 1892, at the Lyceum under Irving's own management.
Physical description
Cream felted wool cardinal's hat, the top covered with faded red, cotton/silk. Wide brim, shallow crown. The underside of the brim has been dyed to match the top. Narrow cotton cord attached on either side of the crown, falling behind the head to end in bunches of tassels.
Dimensions
  • Of brim diameter: 43cm
  • Across crown diameter: 17.5cm
  • Of cord, from crown to end of tassels length: 67cm
  • Width at widest point width: 40cm
  • Hat on its own weight: 0.25kg
  • Hat with its box weight: 2.6kg
  • Height: 12cm
Credit line
Given by the Royal Shakespeare Company
Object history
Museum of London Register entry: 'returned in September 1960'.
Summary
This Cardinal's hat was made for Henry Irving (1838-1905) as part of his costume for Cardinal Wolsey in Henry VIII by William Shakespeare (1564-1616). In keeping with leading actors before him, Irving chose the role of the Cardinal for its complex and arresting character, heightened visually by his costume of a vivid pink colour. Irving's Wolsey was a mixture of asceticism and malignity, a religious man who rose from humble beginnings to attain a position of great influence as the King's Lord Chancellor. It was this, coupled with Wolsey's eventual loss of power and status, that attracted Irving to the part. To ensure historical accuracy, Irving employed John Seymour Lucas (1849-1923), a Royal Academician and Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, to oversee the design of the costumes.

Irving became a professional actor in 1856, and learned his trade in regional theatres until 1866, when he came to London. He joined the Lyceum Theatre company under the management of H. L. Bateman in 1871, winning great acclaim that year for his psychologically developed characterisation of the guilt-ridden inn-keeper Mathias in Leopold Lewis's melodrama The Bells. He took on the responsibilities of 'actor-manager' in 1878 when he assumed the management of the Lyceum, and remained there until 1902, enjoying star status with his leading lady Ellen Terry (1847-1928). Irving produced a diverse range of old and new plays at the Lyceum, including Shakespeare, historical drama, and literary adaptations. His tireless work to elevate the status of the theatrical profession was rewarded in 1895 when he became the first actor ever to receive a knighthood for services to the Theatre.

Irving specialised in spectacularly staged productions with large casts of performers. He commissioned designers and composers to create appropriate scenery, costume and incidental music, played by a full orchestra. Although electric lighting was available from the 1880s, Irving preferred the softer effects of gas, with lime light to focus attention at key points in the play. Irving toured complete productions outside London, taking the full company, scenery and costumes throughout the United Kingdom and across the United States and Canada. The development of the railway system made his the first generation able to achieve this level of touring productions.
Associated object
S.2719-2010 (Version)
Bibliographic reference
Holmes, Martin. Stage Costumes and Accessories in the London Museum. London : HMSO, 1968 no.135
Other number
56.4/6 - Museum of London number
Collection
Accession number
S.2720-2010

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdNovember 2, 2010
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest