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Queen's Robe of State

1860-1880 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is the elaborate robe of state specially created for one of the chief queens of King Mindon, the penultimate king of the Konbaung Dynasty (1752-1885), who ruled Burma from 1853 to 1878.

Strict sumptuary laws applied to every aspect of life at the court of the Konbaung kings and this particularly applied to dress. Almost every article of clothing was indicative of the individual's rank. The decorative elements and the style of this robe could only have been worn by a person of the queen's rank. Such apparel drew on Indian silver and gilt embroidery work and was inspired by 18th century Thai court dress. Composed of layer upon layer of green velvet and gold decorated pieces with wing-like projections it was not only intended to distinguish the queen from her courtiers, but to suggest an identification with the gods.

However, the Konbaung Dynasty came to an end in 1885 when the entire kingdom came under British rule following a process of annexation throughout the 19th century, and the royal family was exiled to India. This robe of state was purchased by the donor while serving as a Divisional Judge in Burma at the beginning of the 20th century.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 5 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Bandolette
  • Collar (Neckwear)
  • Front Piece
  • Shawl
Materials and techniques
Brief description
Queen's Robe of State. Five tailored pieces decorated with velvet, silk, gold braid, silver-gilt tinsel, sequins and gold lace. Mandalay, Burma, Konbaung period, 1860-80.
Physical description
Five tailored and shaped sumptuously decorated pieces which were worn layer on layer culminating in a costume which when seen from a distance created the image of a legendary apsara - heavenly flying creature.
Dimensions
  • Height: 160cm (estimated) (Note: mounted costume dimensions)
  • Width: 95cm (estimated) (Note: mounted costume dimensions )
  • Depth: 90cm (estimated) (Note: mounted costume dimensions)
Style
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Purchased from L. M. Parlett, Esq.
Object history
This costume was specially created for one of the chief queens of King Mindon (r.1853-78). The decorative elements could have been worn only by a person of her rank.

Purchased by Mr. L.M. Parlett while serving as a Divisional Judge in Burma at the beginning of the 20th century.;;

Purchased from L. M. Parlett, Esq., Inglewood, Bath Road, Reading. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

RP 1911-5059M
Production
Attribution note: Technique and style of decoration refer to 19th century Konbaung Dynasty.
Summary
This is the elaborate robe of state specially created for one of the chief queens of King Mindon, the penultimate king of the Konbaung Dynasty (1752-1885), who ruled Burma from 1853 to 1878.

Strict sumptuary laws applied to every aspect of life at the court of the Konbaung kings and this particularly applied to dress. Almost every article of clothing was indicative of the individual's rank. The decorative elements and the style of this robe could only have been worn by a person of the queen's rank. Such apparel drew on Indian silver and gilt embroidery work and was inspired by 18th century Thai court dress. Composed of layer upon layer of green velvet and gold decorated pieces with wing-like projections it was not only intended to distinguish the queen from her courtiers, but to suggest an identification with the gods.

However, the Konbaung Dynasty came to an end in 1885 when the entire kingdom came under British rule following a process of annexation throughout the 19th century, and the royal family was exiled to India. This robe of state was purchased by the donor while serving as a Divisional Judge in Burma at the beginning of the 20th century.
Associated object
Bibliographic references
  • Franklin and Swallow. Identifying with the Gods Hali Annual Edition 1994: p.49, ill. 1 Conway, Dr. Susan; Power Dressing: Female Court Dress and Marital Alliances in Lan Na, the Shan States and Siam Orientations; April 2001; p. 46 Ferrars "Burma" pp. 169-170. pls. 384; 151;382 Captain Yule: "Mission to the Court of Burma". pp. 85-87 Sylvia Fraser-Lu: Burmese Crafts - Past an Present"; OUP 1994; p. 263
  • Burma to Myanmar p. 76 and fig. 3.2
Collection
Accession number
IM.45 to B, E, F-1912

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Record createdSeptember 20, 1999
Record URL
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