Bangle thumbnail 1
Bangle thumbnail 2
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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Bangle

2009 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This bangle, in which copper richly patinated in red is juxtaposed with superbly cut spinels and an inner lining of white gold, represents the distinctive voice which Hemmerle has brought to jewellery since the middle of the 1990s. The design is minimalist. The craftsmanship is of the highest order and includes a twist mechanism to open the bangle which is finely engineered. The surprise is the contrast between the base and precious metal, and the base metal and the gemstones, 172 spinels pavé-set.

When Stefan Hemmerle began to explore the marriage of gemstones with a highly unconventional range of woods and metals in the 1990s, one strand of his inspiration was the black cast iron jewellery particularly associated with Berlin in the 19th century.

In 1893 Joseph and Anton Hemmerle took over a jewellery firm founded in Munich in 1866 by G. Hausinger. They were appointed 'Purveyors to the Royal Court'. A diamond-set Bavarian Order of St Hubert made for presentation to King George V in 1911 is in the British Royal Collection. Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli, and their son Christian and his wife Yasmin, are the third and fourth generations of the family to run the firm.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Patinated copper, white gold, faceted spinels
Brief description
'Harmony Bangle', copper patinated red, white gold, and spinels, Hemmerle, Munich, 2009
Physical description
Copper bangle patinated red and lined with white gold. The terminals are set with brilliant-cut spinels, pavé-set. The bangle twists smoothly in the centre to allow it open.
Dimensions
  • Height: 21mm
  • Width: 80mm
  • Depth: 68mm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Hemmerle (On white gold on reverse of terminal.)
  • 750 (Gold standard: on white gold on reverse of terminal.)
  • Cu (On white gold on reverse of terminal: to indicate use of copper in the making of the bangle.)
  • GH, a hammer between the letters (Mark of Gebrüder Hemmerle, Munich)
Credit line
Given anonymously
Summary
This bangle, in which copper richly patinated in red is juxtaposed with superbly cut spinels and an inner lining of white gold, represents the distinctive voice which Hemmerle has brought to jewellery since the middle of the 1990s. The design is minimalist. The craftsmanship is of the highest order and includes a twist mechanism to open the bangle which is finely engineered. The surprise is the contrast between the base and precious metal, and the base metal and the gemstones, 172 spinels pavé-set.

When Stefan Hemmerle began to explore the marriage of gemstones with a highly unconventional range of woods and metals in the 1990s, one strand of his inspiration was the black cast iron jewellery particularly associated with Berlin in the 19th century.

In 1893 Joseph and Anton Hemmerle took over a jewellery firm founded in Munich in 1866 by G. Hausinger. They were appointed 'Purveyors to the Royal Court'. A diamond-set Bavarian Order of St Hubert made for presentation to King George V in 1911 is in the British Royal Collection. Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli, and their son Christian and his wife Yasmin, are the third and fourth generations of the family to run the firm.
Collection
Accession number
M.18:1-2010

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Record createdSeptember 14, 2010
Record URL
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