Shawl
ca. 1852 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Shawls tended to be very large in the 1850s, mainly because they were worn over wide crinoline skirts (skirts supported by a cage-like structure). Shawls like this one, produced in large quantities on a jacquard loom, were generally cheaper than the Indian shawls, which were hand-woven using a more time-consuming technique. By the 1850s the kashmir shawl industry in India was largely controlled by European agents who brought their own pattern books for the local shawl weavers to copy.
Paisley in Scotland, and Norwich, were amongst the first shawl manufacturing centres in Europe to attempt exact reproductions of kashmir patterns in the early 19th century, and shawls were also made in France. By the 1850s the industry was mainly looking to Paris for inspiration. This was largely due to the introduction of the jacquard loom from France, which was in general use in Paisley by 1845. The use of this type of loom meant that more elaborate designs could be produced at a faster rate.
Paisley in Scotland, and Norwich, were amongst the first shawl manufacturing centres in Europe to attempt exact reproductions of kashmir patterns in the early 19th century, and shawls were also made in France. By the 1850s the industry was mainly looking to Paris for inspiration. This was largely due to the introduction of the jacquard loom from France, which was in general use in Paisley by 1845. The use of this type of loom meant that more elaborate designs could be produced at a faster rate.
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Jacquard-woven cashmere |
| Brief description | Shawl, jacquard woven cashmere, made by Frédéric Hérbert et Fils, Paris, ca. 1852. |
| Physical description | Square, jacquard-woven shawl in cashmere. Designed with central black field, surrounded by paired pine cone motifs, with 'harlequin' coloured border. Fringe at two ends. |
| Dimensions |
|
| Production type | Mass produced |
| Marks and inscriptions |
|
| Credit line | Given by Griselda Lewis |
| Summary | Shawls tended to be very large in the 1850s, mainly because they were worn over wide crinoline skirts (skirts supported by a cage-like structure). Shawls like this one, produced in large quantities on a jacquard loom, were generally cheaper than the Indian shawls, which were hand-woven using a more time-consuming technique. By the 1850s the kashmir shawl industry in India was largely controlled by European agents who brought their own pattern books for the local shawl weavers to copy. Paisley in Scotland, and Norwich, were amongst the first shawl manufacturing centres in Europe to attempt exact reproductions of kashmir patterns in the early 19th century, and shawls were also made in France. By the 1850s the industry was mainly looking to Paris for inspiration. This was largely due to the introduction of the jacquard loom from France, which was in general use in Paisley by 1845. The use of this type of loom meant that more elaborate designs could be produced at a faster rate. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.72-2010 |
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| Record created | September 1, 2010 |
| Record URL |
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