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Manly Sweater

Design
1972 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This drawing is a design for a man's sweater. It was made by Patrick Caulfield in 1972 for the knitwear label Ritva which was established in 1966 by Mike and Ritva Ross. Caulfield was one of several of their friends and acquaintances approached to design limited ‘artists’ edition’ sweaters in the early seventies. Others included David Hockney and Allen Jones.

Caulfield referred to his 1972 design as the ’Manly Sweater‘. The shoulders and elbows had leather patches and a leather pipe stuck out of the breast pocket. A design for the pocket motif is also in the collection (Museum no. E.414-2005). An ironic take on 1950s’ masculinity, the drawing has annotations explaining exactly what the design features were supposed to represent — the black leather for ’forthrightness/determination‘, for example.

The sweater was eventually produced in two colours: white and green. Each had a unique label signed by the artist. In 2000, the V&A acquired one of the 25 or so sweaters made to Caulfield's design. The sweater and the drawings together, comprise a useful document of fashion history, uniting first designs and finished article.

Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleManly Sweater (manufacturer's title)
Materials and techniques
Black ink on paper
Brief description
Black ink drawing on paper, design for Ritva 'Manly Sweater', by Patrick Caulfield, London, 1972.
Physical description
Pen and black ink drawing on paper, depicting a man leaning against a ledge, wearing a sweater with shoulder and elbow leather patches. The front of the sweater's design includes a smoking pipe emblazoned above the breast pocket. There are various annotations in black ink to explain what the various colours in the design represent, for example 'black leather = forthrightness/determination' or 'white = purity'.
Dimensions
  • Height: 22.8cm
  • Width: 17.8cm
Subjects depicted
Summary
This drawing is a design for a man's sweater. It was made by Patrick Caulfield in 1972 for the knitwear label Ritva which was established in 1966 by Mike and Ritva Ross. Caulfield was one of several of their friends and acquaintances approached to design limited ‘artists’ edition’ sweaters in the early seventies. Others included David Hockney and Allen Jones.

Caulfield referred to his 1972 design as the ’Manly Sweater‘. The shoulders and elbows had leather patches and a leather pipe stuck out of the breast pocket. A design for the pocket motif is also in the collection (Museum no. E.414-2005). An ironic take on 1950s’ masculinity, the drawing has annotations explaining exactly what the design features were supposed to represent — the black leather for ’forthrightness/determination‘, for example.

The sweater was eventually produced in two colours: white and green. Each had a unique label signed by the artist. In 2000, the V&A acquired one of the 25 or so sweaters made to Caulfield's design. The sweater and the drawings together, comprise a useful document of fashion history, uniting first designs and finished article.
Associated objects
Collection
Accession number
E.413-2005

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Record createdSeptember 20, 2005
Record URL
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