Pin thumbnail 1
Pin thumbnail 2
+2
images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

This object consists of 2 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Pin

1972-1973 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Elizabeth Gage has been a major figure in British jewellery since the 1970s. She is admired for her distinctive interpretations of a wide range of historical and cultural styles, and for her ability to create jewellery which is both glamorous and subtle, and which remains highly wearable despite its bold scale.

She studied at the Sir John Cass College in the 1960s, and in 1968 designed a collection for Cartier, New York. In 1972 she won the De Beers International Diamond Award with her 'Agincourt' ring design. Her business expanded rapidly during the 1980s and by 1989, when she was awarded the Queen's Award for Export Achievement, she employed twenty-five full-time staff.

This pin, which she describes as one of her 'classic kiss style pins' on account of the diagonal cross at its heart, shows Elizabeth Gage's love of unusual, irregular and colourful stones, and illustrates her particular ability to create modern jewels infused with echoes of past centuries.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Pin
  • Box
Materials and Techniques
Tourmalines, aquamarines, rubies, cultured pearls, gold and enamel
Brief Description
Gold pin, enamelled, set with tourmalines, aquamarines, rubies, and cultured pearls, by Elizabeth Gage, London, 1972
Physical Description
Cruciform arrangement of five large cabochon stones, the central stone and lower drop of green tourmaline, the three others of aquamarine. All have ribbed gold frames, the aquamarines also have a narrow band of brownish-purple enamel. A diagonal cross is formed by four irregular grey pearls, the upper pair held in coiled conical gold mounts which attach to the frame of the central tourmaline, the lower are linked to the central tourmaline by two faceted rubies. Three smaller pearls are set at the left, right and top of the brooch. The brooch has a pin fitting on the reverse and a pendant fitting behind the upper stone.
Dimensions
  • Height: 82mm
  • Width: 66mm
  • Depth: 22mm
Marks and Inscriptions
  • GAGE
  • ER (Elizabeth Russel was her name at this time)
  • London hallmarks for 18 carat gold, 1972-73
Credit line
Given by Elizabeth Gage
Object history
The piece was selected from Elizabeth Gage's personal collection.
Summary
Elizabeth Gage has been a major figure in British jewellery since the 1970s. She is admired for her distinctive interpretations of a wide range of historical and cultural styles, and for her ability to create jewellery which is both glamorous and subtle, and which remains highly wearable despite its bold scale.



She studied at the Sir John Cass College in the 1960s, and in 1968 designed a collection for Cartier, New York. In 1972 she won the De Beers International Diamond Award with her 'Agincourt' ring design. Her business expanded rapidly during the 1980s and by 1989, when she was awarded the Queen's Award for Export Achievement, she employed twenty-five full-time staff.



This pin, which she describes as one of her 'classic kiss style pins' on account of the diagonal cross at its heart, shows Elizabeth Gage's love of unusual, irregular and colourful stones, and illustrates her particular ability to create modern jewels infused with echoes of past centuries.
Bibliographic Reference
Gage, Elizabeth. The Unconventional Gage. London: Newgate Press Limited, 2003. p.19
Collection
Accession Number
M.20:1-2010

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record createdJuly 5, 2010
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