Necklace
1867 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This necklace, in the archaeological style, has contemporary layered agate cameos inspired by fashionable classical hardstone gems.
It was made by the jeweller John Brogden and purchased from the International Exhibition in Paris of 1867. He won a number of awards at the International Exhibitions in London and Paris from 1851-1878. Brogden is known to have looked to the finds at Nineveh and Pompeian wall paintings for sources. He also worked in the Rennaissance style. The industrialist Henry Bolckow (1806-78) visited the Paris Exhibition and bought this necklace for his second wife Harriet. Henry Bolkcow (1806-78) , a naturalised German, had made his fortune in the iron industry. He became the first mayor of Middlesbrough, a member of Parliament and a local philanthropist. Harriet Bolkcow survived her husband and on her death in 1890, left a group of assorted jewels and her collection of lace to the South Kensington Museum (now the V&A).
The design of the necklace is attributed to Mrs Newman because the earring in this suite with a mask carved in an almost white layer of agate follows a design (E.2:1221-1986) in the 'The Brogden Album' now held in the Print Room of the V&A. In an essay on the album published in the auction catalogue when the album was sold by Sotheby's (5 December 1985, lot 411), Shirley Bury attributed the design for the earring to Mrs Newman, who designed for Brogden for many years. After his death she set up her own shop and workshop. 'The Brogden Album' (E.2-1986) contains 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles.
The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.
It was made by the jeweller John Brogden and purchased from the International Exhibition in Paris of 1867. He won a number of awards at the International Exhibitions in London and Paris from 1851-1878. Brogden is known to have looked to the finds at Nineveh and Pompeian wall paintings for sources. He also worked in the Rennaissance style. The industrialist Henry Bolckow (1806-78) visited the Paris Exhibition and bought this necklace for his second wife Harriet. Henry Bolkcow (1806-78) , a naturalised German, had made his fortune in the iron industry. He became the first mayor of Middlesbrough, a member of Parliament and a local philanthropist. Harriet Bolkcow survived her husband and on her death in 1890, left a group of assorted jewels and her collection of lace to the South Kensington Museum (now the V&A).
The design of the necklace is attributed to Mrs Newman because the earring in this suite with a mask carved in an almost white layer of agate follows a design (E.2:1221-1986) in the 'The Brogden Album' now held in the Print Room of the V&A. In an essay on the album published in the auction catalogue when the album was sold by Sotheby's (5 December 1985, lot 411), Shirley Bury attributed the design for the earring to Mrs Newman, who designed for Brogden for many years. After his death she set up her own shop and workshop. 'The Brogden Album' (E.2-1986) contains 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles.
The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Enamelled gold, hung with cameos of chalcedony and onyx |
| Brief description | Necklace with cameos of antique masks. England, London, 1867. Made by John Brogden (died 1884). Enamelled gold with layered agate cameos. Exhibited and bought at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867. |
| Physical description | Enamelled gold necklace, hung with cameos of classical masks in layered agate. In the late 18th century Neoclassical manner. Applied plaque with maker's mark of John Brogden, 'JB' in Roman capitals. |
| Dimensions |
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| Style | |
| Marks and inscriptions | 'JB' in Roman capitals (Applied plaque with the mark of John Brogden of Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.) |
| Credit line | Bequeathed by Mrs Harriet Bolckow |
| Object history | Applied plaque with the mark of John Brogden of Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, JB in Roman capitals. Shown by Brogden at the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1867. |
| Subjects depicted | |
| Summary | This necklace, in the archaeological style, has contemporary layered agate cameos inspired by fashionable classical hardstone gems. It was made by the jeweller John Brogden and purchased from the International Exhibition in Paris of 1867. He won a number of awards at the International Exhibitions in London and Paris from 1851-1878. Brogden is known to have looked to the finds at Nineveh and Pompeian wall paintings for sources. He also worked in the Rennaissance style. The industrialist Henry Bolckow (1806-78) visited the Paris Exhibition and bought this necklace for his second wife Harriet. Henry Bolkcow (1806-78) , a naturalised German, had made his fortune in the iron industry. He became the first mayor of Middlesbrough, a member of Parliament and a local philanthropist. Harriet Bolkcow survived her husband and on her death in 1890, left a group of assorted jewels and her collection of lace to the South Kensington Museum (now the V&A). The design of the necklace is attributed to Mrs Newman because the earring in this suite with a mask carved in an almost white layer of agate follows a design (E.2:1221-1986) in the 'The Brogden Album' now held in the Print Room of the V&A. In an essay on the album published in the auction catalogue when the album was sold by Sotheby's (5 December 1985, lot 411), Shirley Bury attributed the design for the earring to Mrs Newman, who designed for Brogden for many years. After his death she set up her own shop and workshop. 'The Brogden Album' (E.2-1986) contains 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles. The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | 734-1890 |
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| Record created | September 6, 2005 |
| Record URL |
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