Not currently on display at the V&A

Yinzi or Tabet

ca. 1885 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Yinzi (breast cloth) or tabet (stole) of silk acheik-luntaya ('100' shuttles interlocking) hand-woven tapestry weave. In the acheik section the weft threads are double or triple. In the end borders they are single. Organised into a central body of acheik (horizontal wave) patterns (Length 137.5 cm) and two checkered end borders (Length 57 and 58 cm).

The acheik section consists of warp length bands. Three bands of approximately 6.5 cm with four divider bands and 2 plain outer borders. Worked with dark red, lighter red, yellow and gilt thread. The divider lines are in dark red and yellow 'twisted rope' wavy lines patterns. The wider panels are with double wavy lines in dark red punctuated by two rows of alternate yellow and gilt thread sprigs. White silk replaces the gilt thread at the end.

The first border consists 10 weft bands divided by a single white weft - return of double white thread. Bands alternating in two different shades of red. Warp thread of cloth is in a lighter and darker red - darker thread being used as a divider device.

The second border consists of 10 weft bands in a sequence of light red, dark red, light red, dark red, light red, yellow, dark red, light red, yellow and light red.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk acheik-luntaya hand-woven tapestry weave and gilt thread
Brief description
Yinzi (breast cloth) or tabet (stole) of silk acheik-luntaya hand-woven tapestry weave, Mandalay, ca. 1885.
Physical description
Yinzi (breast cloth) or tabet (stole) of silk acheik-luntaya ('100' shuttles interlocking) hand-woven tapestry weave. In the acheik section the weft threads are double or triple. In the end borders they are single. Organised into a central body of acheik (horizontal wave) patterns (Length 137.5 cm) and two checkered end borders (Length 57 and 58 cm).

The acheik section consists of warp length bands. Three bands of approximately 6.5 cm with four divider bands and 2 plain outer borders. Worked with dark red, lighter red, yellow and gilt thread. The divider lines are in dark red and yellow 'twisted rope' wavy lines patterns. The wider panels are with double wavy lines in dark red punctuated by two rows of alternate yellow and gilt thread sprigs. White silk replaces the gilt thread at the end.

The first border consists 10 weft bands divided by a single white weft - return of double white thread. Bands alternating in two different shades of red. Warp thread of cloth is in a lighter and darker red - darker thread being used as a divider device.

The second border consists of 10 weft bands in a sequence of light red, dark red, light red, dark red, light red, yellow, dark red, light red, yellow and light red.
Dimensions
  • Length: 253cm
  • Width: 29.75cm
  • Length: 102in
  • Width: 11.92in
Style
Credit line
Purchased from Mrs Bronte Pollard
Object history
This garment was found in 1885 by the husband of the donor, Col. Pollard, at the Royal Palace, Mandalay, in the apartment of the chief queen (mibaya), Queen Supayalat, of King Thibaw (r.1878-1885) with IM 7, 8, 10-1909.

Purchased from Mrs Bronte Pollard, 104 Queen's Gate, SW. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

RP 4734/1909
Production
Attribution note: Woven on a hand loom in Mandalay Palace. Konbaung Dynasty (1752-1885).
Bibliographic reference
Fraser-Lu, Sylvia. Handwoven Textiles of South-East Asia. Oxford University Press: 1988. 50 & 88p., Figs. 113 & 114
Collection
Accession number
IM.9-1909

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Record createdJuly 14, 1999
Record URL
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