Yinzi or Tabet thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Yinzi or Tabet

ca. 1885 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is a detail of a silk garment, woven on a hand-loom in Mandalay Palace. The bands of undulating rope design, filled with floral and leaf patterns in a range of stunning colours on a red ground, exemplifies the renowned and uniquely Burmese textile known as acheik-luntaya. This garment would have been worn by a lady of the court either as a tabet (stole) or a yinzi (breast cloth), forming an ensemble when worn with a wrap skirt known in Burma as an hta-mein and jacket known as an ein-gyi.

The garment dates from the reign of King Thibaw (r. 1878-1885), the last ruler of the Konbaung dynasty. It was found in the apartment of Queen Supayalat, the chief queen of King Thibaw, by the donor's husband, Colonel Pollard, who was a member of the British force that annexed upper Burma in 1885.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk acheik-luntaya hand-woven tapestry weave
Brief description
Acheik (horizontal wave patterned) textile breast cloth (Yinzi) or stole (tabet) in silk luntaya tapestry weave, Mandalay, ca. 1885
Physical description
Acheik (horizontal wave patterned) textile breast cloth (Yinzi) or stole (tabet) in silk luntaya ('100 shuttles' interlocking) tapestry weave. The pattern is of a multi-strand cable design alternating with bands of undulating floral, creepers and straight bands filled very closely with conventional flowers and leaf scrolls in red, pink, orange, yellow, light and dark greens, white and black on a red ground. The ends are finished in deep checkered bands in the colours of the main body.
Dimensions
  • Length: 264cm
  • Width: 27.4cm
  • Length: 104in
  • Width: 10.75in
Style
Credit line
Purchased from Mrs Bronte Pollard
Object history
This garment was found in 1885 by the husband of the donor, Col. Pollard, at the Royal Palace, Mandalay, in the apartment of the chief queen (mibaya), Queen Supayalat, of King Thibaw (r.1878-1885) with IM 7, 9, 10-1909.

Purchased from Mrs Bronte Pollard, 104 Queen's Gate, SW. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

RP 4734/1909
Production
Attribution note: Woven on a hand loom in Mandalay Palace. Konbaung Dynasty (1752-1885).
Summary
This is a detail of a silk garment, woven on a hand-loom in Mandalay Palace. The bands of undulating rope design, filled with floral and leaf patterns in a range of stunning colours on a red ground, exemplifies the renowned and uniquely Burmese textile known as acheik-luntaya. This garment would have been worn by a lady of the court either as a tabet (stole) or a yinzi (breast cloth), forming an ensemble when worn with a wrap skirt known in Burma as an hta-mein and jacket known as an ein-gyi.

The garment dates from the reign of King Thibaw (r. 1878-1885), the last ruler of the Konbaung dynasty. It was found in the apartment of Queen Supayalat, the chief queen of King Thibaw, by the donor's husband, Colonel Pollard, who was a member of the British force that annexed upper Burma in 1885.
Bibliographic reference
Franklin & Swallow. Identifying with the Gods; Hali Annual Edition 1994: 53p; Fig.4.
Collection
Accession number
IM.8-1909

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Record createdJuly 14, 1999
Record URL
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