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Not on display

Ensemble

early 1969 (designed and made)
Artist/Maker
Di Sant'Angelo, Giorgio (designer)
Place of origin
United States (made)

Woman's ensemble, comprising a square top and voluminous purple jersey trousers designed to be tied in at whim with matching sashes.

Object details

Categories
Fashion
Clothing
Evening Wear
Embroidery
Textiles
Object type
Ensemble
Parts
This object consists of 6 parts.

  • Top
  • Sash
  • Trousers
  • Sash
  • Sash
  • Sash
Materials and techniques
Cotton, synthetic jersey, glass beads, paillettes, silk cord
Cotton (Textile)
Synthetic Jersey
Glass-Beads
Silk Cord
Grosgrain
Beading
Applied Work
Brief description
Trouser ensemble, woman's, purple jersey trousers with fringed belt and three sashes, beaded top, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo, USA, 1969.
Physical description
Woman's ensemble, comprising a square top and voluminous purple jersey trousers designed to be tied in at whim with matching sashes.
Dimensions
  • Waist measured inside garment circumference: 62cm (Note: Measured by Conservation)
  • Outside leg length: 130cm (Note: Measured by Conservation)
  • Inside leg length: 108cm (Note: Measured by Conservation)
  • Crotch depth (front waist to back waist through crotch) length: 51cm (Note: Measured by Conservation)
Production typeUnique
Marks and inscriptions
'SANT'ANGELO' (Label in trousers and top)
Gallery label
Adorning the body

This wearable brass 'bra' is an early example of large-scale, fitted, three-dimensional jewellery. Its maker, Helen Newman, was inspired by Paco Rabanne's experimental fashions made from linked metal plates. These were unaffordable for her, at the time.

Newman commented in 1970, 'For too long jewellery has played second fiddle to clothes. Why shouldn't clothes be worn to set off jewellery?'.

Bra
Helen Newman (b.1942)
Britain, 1970
Beaten brass lined with suede
VYA: M.8:1&2-2006
Given by Helen Newman

Harem pants
Giorgio di Sant'Angelo (1933-1989)
USA, 1969
Synthetic jersey and cord
V&A: T.12:1 to 6-2010
Given by the Metropolitan Museum of Art (Costume Institute), on behalf of Martin F. Price
Credit line
Given by the Metropolitan Museum of Art (Costume Institute), on behalf of Martin F. Price
Object history
The trousers were published in American Vogue, March 15 1969, with a different belt and top.

From the Acquisition Justification - Giorgio di Sant'Angelo (b.1933) was one of the most influential and original of American designers from 1969 to his premature death in 1989. In contrast to the restraint of many of his contemporaries in late 1960s American fashion, his clothes were extravagantly theatrical and dramatic, celebrating a wide range of ethnic influences, textures, and vibrant colours and patterns.

As a dancer, Sant'Angelo designed clothes with movement in mind. His clothes utilised floating layers of chiffon and georgette which were worn over form-fitting leotards and jumpsuits in spandex and Lycra. Many of his designs were intended to be customised, with wearers able to decide how they wore the garments.
Collection
Textiles and Fashion Collection
Accession number
T.12:1 to 6-2010

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Record createdFebruary 19, 2010
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1155209/ensemble-di-santangelo-giorgio/
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