The English word ‘pomander’ derives from the Latin, ‘pomum de ambre’ or ‘amber apple’. Used in England from the 1490s, a pomander was a mixture of fragrant substances kept in a case of gold, silver, ivory or wood. Worn around the neck or at the waist, they were believed to protect their owners against disease. The ancient Romans carried aromatic blends for protection in small containers (pouncet boxes) perforated with holes to allow the aroma to escape.

As certain spices became associated with the treatment of specific ailments, it was important to keep them separate to prevent contamination. This pomander contains six segmented chambers which are released by a decorative knop that allows the segments to hinge outwards. All the chambers would originally have been sealed with a sliding lid. The decoration of delicately engraved flowers and ornamental dragon evokes both the scent and the potency of the ingredients. Compartments could be engraved with the names of ingredients such as rosemary, cinnamon, cloves, ‘schlag’ (a mixture of brandy, primrose petals and violets taken as a cardiac stimulant) nutmeg or ambergris. The perforated base unscrews and would have once held balsam or a small sponge soaked in oils extracted from mint, camphor, cloves and lavender mixed with a vinegar (acetic acid) to produce a stimulating aroma, known as a ‘vinaigrette’. Highly skilled silversmiths would have been required to execute such a complex design.