Theatre Costume
ca.1922 (made)
Artist/Maker |
Dress designed by Leon Bakst for Mariuccia in The Good-Humoured Ladies or Les Femmes de Bonne Humeur; originally performed by Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes at the Teatro Costanzi, Rome, on 12 April 1917 under the Italian title Le Donne di Buon Umore. It was a one act comic ballet choreographed by Léonide Massine to music by Domenico Scarlatti, orchestrated by Vincenzo Tommasini, based on the play by Carlo Goldoni.
The original designs for the set and costumes by Léon Bakst were more stylised and experimental, giving the performers the appearance of marionettes, but the production was revised and more traditionally re-designed for performances at the London Coliseum from 5 September 1918. The ballet remained in the Ballets Russes repertory until 24 March 1927 and was mounted for de Basil’s Ballets Russes in 1935.
The ballet is set in 18th century Venice at Carnaval and centres around a meal and focuses on a series of love affairs most notably that between Constanza and Rinaldo, hindered and assisted by Constanza’s vivacious maid Mariuccia. The role of Mariuccia was created by Lydia Lopokova later passed to Tamara Karsavina, Vera Nemchinova and Alexandra Danilova. There are a number of differences between the costumes worn by Lopokova and Karsavina and those worn by Nemchinova and Danilova (most notably the later dress is longer and the earlier costumes had additional bows) and this costume fits with images of the two later dancers. Indeed, Danilova has confirmed it appears to be the costume she, wore suggesting it was made in the mid-1920s
The original designs for the set and costumes by Léon Bakst were more stylised and experimental, giving the performers the appearance of marionettes, but the production was revised and more traditionally re-designed for performances at the London Coliseum from 5 September 1918. The ballet remained in the Ballets Russes repertory until 24 March 1927 and was mounted for de Basil’s Ballets Russes in 1935.
The ballet is set in 18th century Venice at Carnaval and centres around a meal and focuses on a series of love affairs most notably that between Constanza and Rinaldo, hindered and assisted by Constanza’s vivacious maid Mariuccia. The role of Mariuccia was created by Lydia Lopokova later passed to Tamara Karsavina, Vera Nemchinova and Alexandra Danilova. There are a number of differences between the costumes worn by Lopokova and Karsavina and those worn by Nemchinova and Danilova (most notably the later dress is longer and the earlier costumes had additional bows) and this costume fits with images of the two later dancers. Indeed, Danilova has confirmed it appears to be the costume she, wore suggesting it was made in the mid-1920s
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 2 parts. (Some alternative part names are also shown below)
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Materials and techniques | Silk satin, silk taffeta, silver metal braid, cotton, cotton lace, cotton twill, silk organza, elastic, steel, metal thread |
Brief description | Costume designed by Leon Bakst for Mariuccia in Leonide Massine's ballet Les Femmes de bonne humeur (The Good-humoured Ladies) created for Serge Diaghilev's Ballets Russes 1917. |
Physical description | Costume designed by Leon Bakst for Mariuccia in Leonide Massine's ballet Les Femmes de bonne humeur (The Good-humoured Ladies) created for Serge Diaghilev's Ballets Russes 1917 as remade in the mid 1920s. 18th century short-sleeved, panniered dress in gold satin with a dark blue bow on the bodice. The sleeves have broad stand-away cuffs in white satin and the bodice has a wide square neckline. Over the pannier is a peplum shaped to a point at the sides. The dress is decorated with appliqued pink 'lattice' with silver edging, each enclosing a spray of stylized flowers and leaves in pink, green, magenta and blue. The dress has a single underskirt of white cotton with lace edging |
Object history | Purchased at the sale of Costumes and Curtains from the Diaghilev and de Basil Ballets at the Chenil Galleries, Kings Road on 3 March 1973 Lot 144 when it was purchased by the Friends of the Museum of Performance for £160 |
Summary | Dress designed by Leon Bakst for Mariuccia in The Good-Humoured Ladies or Les Femmes de Bonne Humeur; originally performed by Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes at the Teatro Costanzi, Rome, on 12 April 1917 under the Italian title Le Donne di Buon Umore. It was a one act comic ballet choreographed by Léonide Massine to music by Domenico Scarlatti, orchestrated by Vincenzo Tommasini, based on the play by Carlo Goldoni. The original designs for the set and costumes by Léon Bakst were more stylised and experimental, giving the performers the appearance of marionettes, but the production was revised and more traditionally re-designed for performances at the London Coliseum from 5 September 1918. The ballet remained in the Ballets Russes repertory until 24 March 1927 and was mounted for de Basil’s Ballets Russes in 1935. The ballet is set in 18th century Venice at Carnaval and centres around a meal and focuses on a series of love affairs most notably that between Constanza and Rinaldo, hindered and assisted by Constanza’s vivacious maid Mariuccia. The role of Mariuccia was created by Lydia Lopokova later passed to Tamara Karsavina, Vera Nemchinova and Alexandra Danilova. There are a number of differences between the costumes worn by Lopokova and Karsavina and those worn by Nemchinova and Danilova (most notably the later dress is longer and the earlier costumes had additional bows) and this costume fits with images of the two later dancers. Indeed, Danilova has confirmed it appears to be the costume she, wore suggesting it was made in the mid-1920s |
Collection | |
Accession number | S.148&A-1985 |
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Record created | July 1, 2009 |
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