Skirt thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Skirt

ca. 1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This detail of a beautifully patterned cotton and silk wrap-skirt known as a
hta-mein, dating to before 1855, would have been worn on festive occasions by a fashionable Arakanese woman. It would have been worn overlapping slightly in the front revealing a portion of her leg as she walked. Typical of hta-mein, the centre silk panel is the focus of decorative interest and displays the unique horizontal wave patterned "100 shuttles" interlocking tapestry weave known in Burmese as acheik-luntaya in golden yellow, mid-green, red and white. From this flows a striped coral train the graceful management of which was an acquired skill. It would have been part of an ensemble when worn with an ein-gyi (fitted jacket) and yinzi (breast cloth).

The Arakanese, who inhabit the western coastal area of Burma, ruled their own kingdom until 1784 when they were conquered by the Burmese. In culture and dress they are very similar to the Burmese.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton damask and silk cloth of luntaya (interlocking tapestry weave)
Brief description
Burmese multi-coloured cotton and silk hta-mein. Konbaung Dynasty (1752-1885). ca. 1850. Acheik-luntaya patterned area.
Physical description
Composed of three parts. A red cotton waistband (w.68.5 cm) joined to a strip of acheik (horizontal wave patterned) silk textile with checkered end borders of golden yellow, mid-green, red and white (w.63.5 cm.) to which is attached a separately woven pink silk train partly patterned with fine horizontal stripes in red, yellow and purple (w.45.5 cm.) These components are hand stitched together.
Dimensions
  • Length: 175.3cm
  • Width: 122cm
Style
Production
Attributed to an Arakanese lady. Acquired by the India Museum in 1855.
Summary
This detail of a beautifully patterned cotton and silk wrap-skirt known as a
hta-mein, dating to before 1855, would have been worn on festive occasions by a fashionable Arakanese woman. It would have been worn overlapping slightly in the front revealing a portion of her leg as she walked. Typical of hta-mein, the centre silk panel is the focus of decorative interest and displays the unique horizontal wave patterned "100 shuttles" interlocking tapestry weave known in Burmese as acheik-luntaya in golden yellow, mid-green, red and white. From this flows a striped coral train the graceful management of which was an acquired skill. It would have been part of an ensemble when worn with an ein-gyi (fitted jacket) and yinzi (breast cloth).

The Arakanese, who inhabit the western coastal area of Burma, ruled their own kingdom until 1784 when they were conquered by the Burmese. In culture and dress they are very similar to the Burmese.
Bibliographic reference
Fraser-Lu, Sylvia. Handwoven Textiles of South-East Asia Oxford University Press: 1988. 50 & 88p., ill. Fraser-Lu, Sylvia Burmese Crafts: Past and Present Oxford University Press: 1994. 262p., ill.
Other number
3738 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
4396(IS)

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Record createdMay 25, 1999
Record URL
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